R1 NOS

[Matt]

Just wondering if anyone knows much about fitting nos systems? I'm toying with the idea of nos'ing an R1. Are better pistons etc a must? obviously the basic system is just a matter of running lines, mounting bottle etc, but I'm not sure what has to happen to the engine itself.

Matt,im no expert,but i recently read sumwhere that nitro is the easiest bolt on power gain without having to modify pistons and shit,as long as ya bearings and running gear can handle the extra power

[Tony Nitrous]

Matt,

Busy now,
Will PM you my number next week ;)

Tony.J.

[Matt]

quote:Originally posted by Tony Nitrous

Matt,

Busy now,
Will PM you my number next week ;)

Tony.J.




;)

[Stocky]

What model R1 ?

How much more power ?

[Matt]

Carbied model 98-01
It doesn't need to be a balistic huge HP motor, just a bit of fun for the drags etc

[Tony Nitrous]

I would be going with the traditional Holley/NOS wet system.
Sure everyone will have there own favorites but for a carb'd bike the basic wet NOS is tried and tested, easy to fit, not sure about here but in UK lots of folk at the drags ran this system, which meant you could borrow swop Jets and use their bottles/adapters to top up yours etc etc, along with folk having a lot of knowledge / experiance.
Just made life a little easyier.

I used a 2.5lb bottle on the street, about as big as is sensible. If i do it again I would use a smaller bottle and have a full spare sat read to swop.

Tony.J.

[Matt]

Thanks Tony,
Easy/simple setup is good for me. I'll have a bit of a look around and try and get some ideas on costs and fitting requirements and I might give you a yell when The bike and my finances are ready if thats ok

[Tony Nitrous]

quote:Originally posted by r1crashtestdummy

Thanks Tony,
Easy/simple setup is good for me. I'll have a bit of a look around and try and get some ideas on costs and fitting requirements and I might give you a yell when The bike and my finances are ready if thats ok


Im no expert, but will share what i do know,
If you can understand 2 solenoids, a fuel pump, simple switch's,
and changing jets, then NOS is easy.

Its the things you learn along the way...
* Dont assemble the whole thing only to find you cant get a spanner on the NOS filter hidden on the side of the solenoid,
* Test it by hitting the fire button with the gas turned OFF, should choke the motor for a second or 2 (fuel but no Gas to burn it)
Fuel only = lack of power, NOS only = meltdown !
* Im looking into putting a pressure switch somewhere in the fuel side (Post/Pre-solenoid) that wouldnt allow the NOS solenoid to trigger without fuel pressure not sure if its do-able or practical.
* A "60-shot" seems fine on most good motors, after that look at forged pistons and a better clutch.
* Bla bla bla bla... am i boring you yet Matt ;)

Tony.J.

[Rocket]

I've played with nitrous on a couple of cars (all under carb plate systems)and I agree with everything Tony says.
I would definately go with a full kit from a well known name.
These kits will come with a safe fuel/gas ratio and should have everything you need like a high flow fuel tap and fuel pump. So if you don't fuck with them, you shouldn't break anything. Unless you do the gas with no fuel thing, and that would be very very bad.....so don't.

When I bleed up the fuel system, I usually have some revs on board, then hit the button a few times with the gas turned off to bleed up the fuel, as tony says, it will choke the motor. Then I turn the gas on, have a few revs on board (in a car, about 2500 to 3000) and hit the button a few times to make sure it's all good. It should rev crisp and clean like you've given the throttle a stab.
(I always used a button on the gearshift rather than a micro switch on the carb which only fires the kit at full throttle)

Another thing is not to use boost at low RPM's. Low RPM's means more time per stroke for gas and fuel to get into cylinders, which means really big bang. Followed by some other big bangs, a rattle and some oil on your leg....so don't do that either.

Never EVER fire the kit without the engine running. N20 is not like a fart, it won't dissipate after a while. It will sit in the cylinder or inlet tract and wait for you to start the motor up next time. See above for results.
If you do this accidentally, remove the plug leads and earth them, crack the throttle wide open and crank the engine for ten seconds to pump it out. Then again for another ten seconds because you're scared.

I'm a fan of NOS (Nitrous Oxide Systems). I called Oznos once about a kit for a B12 I had a while back and was underwhelmed by their response and lack of interest.
McDonald Brothers Racing (NOS distributors)always gave good advice and were keen when I dealt with them. I'd be sure they do bike kits too.

Of course, all of the above advice should be given to you by the people who sell you the kit and if they are the right shop, they should give it to you without being interrogated.
Tell them you don't know shit and ask what advice can they give you.

My other advice (fuck me, I'm STILL going!) is to buy an inline nitrous filter to catch any crap before the solenoid.
Do not use thread tape anywhere on the kit, use a liquid thread sealer. One little piece of thread tape in your solenoid and it may stick open. Then it will be oil on leg time again.
Also decide where this bike will take you. No use getting an adjustable 150hp, progressive controlled kit if you just want to give it a fang every now and then.
It's also no use buying a kit with solenoids that have an upper flow limit of 50-60hp if you plan to get bitten by the drag racing bug. Otherwise you will soon be buying a bigger kit.

Nitrous is tops. It makes you go fast. It impresses the chicks at the milk bar.
But it will lunch your motor quicker than Richard Carlton can say "I'm fucked"
But do it right and it is the best shit and won't hurt your motor.

Enjoy.

[Matt]

Excellent, thanks guys. Sounds like what I want!!!
I'll have a shop around and see whats available