TANK RESEAL KIT

[ozR1127]

[B)]hey, was just wondering if anyone has used a tank resealing kit, an had any luck with them , as i need to do my tank ,light rust on the inside plus one very small pin hole, an i dont wont an rust entering my freshly rebuilt motor or am i better off getttin a new tank ,an of course i am using fine fuel filters , but any help plz

[loosebruce]

Used a Kreem kit in my Gs1000 tank about 6 yrs ago seemed to work OK.
Repainted tank late last year and THEN GOT A PINHOLE LEAK!
Have got a POR15 kit to put in when I get to it.
POR 15 seems to have a good reputation, cost about $70 at a auto paint shop, rather than the bike shop.
I have also used solder to plug holes with variable results.

[Hillsy]

The POR15 kits seem to be the ones to use - the KREEM kits have a tendency to peel off after time and then it's a major job to get rid of the stuff. Check out the GS Resources forums (http://www.thegsresources.com/) - they all rave about the POR products.

Or you could try these links:

http://www.captain.norton.clara.net/cnn2sec41.html#2.41.1
http://www.motorcycleanchor.com/motorcycle/how_to/mc_tankrust.html

Some interesting DIY tank cleaning techniques here.

[Hillsy]

Found another method using saltwater and a battery charger (no nasty chemicals). You can use this method for any sort of rust removal.

Sorry about the length of this - I don't have a URL for this one:



Here's a repost of a method I used quite successfully. There's
no dangerous chemicals to spill; a consideration for me since I:
a) live on a lake, and b) drink from a well. There's also no
ball bearings or nuts to recover afterwards. You need a 10 amp
battery charger, duct tape, a box of salt, water, a funnel, a
piece of steel rod, electrical tape, methyl hydrate and light
oil. I adapted it from a technique used by antique outboard
restorers:

Prep the tank by removing the petcock and gauge sender, clean
the paint work around the holes well, and cover the holes with
duct tape. Stuff rags inside the hump to re-inforce the duct
tape over the sender holes.

Pre-mix the saline electrolyte using most of a box of table salt
to 5 gallons of water, and fill the tank. Tape up the end of a
steel rod (I was told re-bar, but used all-thread ready rod
which worked just fine) so it cannot short out against the tank
bottom. Connect the negative lead of a 10 amp battery charger to
bare metal on the tank (I used the gas cap mounting screw so as
not to damage any paint). Place a wide-mouth plastic
(non-conducting) funnel in the fill hole and put the rod in the
tank through the funnel. Connect the positive lead to the
electrode. It's best to use a charger with an ammeter. Mine just
has a silly voltmeter gauge, so I connected the positive lead
through a separate ammeter. Add salt as required to bring the
current up to 10 amps. (The best I got was 9.4 amps, more salt
didn't help after that). Check every 2 minutes, and stop when
the rust is gone. (It got so murky, I couldn't see the hump
after a while unless I sloshed out some of the water and tipped
the tank. I don't know how they do this with a marine tank and
still check it ;)

Total time for me on this tank was about 10 minutes.

I was amazed at the results. Where there was heavy rusting,
clean shiny metal magically appeared. I used a piece of
cad-plated ready-rod for the electrode, and it turned black. The
saline turned a weird shade of green, with chunks of rust
floating around. I was concerned that the left half of the tank
wouldn't get equal treatment, and I made a point of draining off
some water and sloshing it around to evenly distribute the salt,
and an examination through the fuel gauge hole confirms it
worked on that side too. None the less, I think next time I
would start off with a saline solution instead of plain water,
now that I know how much salt to use (just about 1 box to get
9.4 amps). I also blew a fuse in my ammeter when I inadvertently
touched the rod against the hump in the middle of the tank
trying to stir the salt with the electrode. I guess with a
motorcycle tank, not only the bottom of the rod should be
insulated with electrical tape, but part way up where it might
contact the hump as well.

I flushed everything out thoroughly with water after, followed
with methyl hydrate. Even so, I could see a faint patina of rust
starting to form again within 15 minutes. I quickly coated the
inside with oil, and that took care of that.

[Benz]

Good shit Hillsy,:D
My '84 turbo tank is a freaking rusty nightmare,and I've had to constantly change fuel filters, to keep the system up and running.
I have tried the 3 step cleanup[kreem, or POR, can't remember now...was a while ago] but never used the "kreem" itself, just the two cleaner steps, which improved the general condition, but I still need a better way, electrolosyse [fuck ,how do you spell that!]looks like my answer.
Thanx mate[8D]

[ozR1127]

:Dcheerz , just went out n got me a POR15 kit

[pt]

just bought a tank off egay which has a little bit of light rust on the inside. these kits just cover it over or fix the problem? theres also a bit more serious rust around the filler hole. cna i just hit it with some wet&dry or is that a bad plan?[B)]

[ozR1127]

:)POR 15 is a three part kit ,1, its meant to prepare[oxidise the rust]2, etch an prime the metal , 3, sealin soltion, ive just done it today to my tank , was very ezy , but final coat takes 3 to 4 days to dry , only time will tell[8D]

[arbee]

hillsy got a question for ya am having trouble with rust in my slabby tank and was wondering
does the electrolysis way work? how long did it stay rust free for you, and what is methyl hydrate?

[Hillsy]

Have a look at this arbee:

http://www.thechopperunderground.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=26808&hl=

Appears that the rust gets converted best with line of sight to the electrode, so you may need to experiment with the location of the rod inside the tank. And I think methyl hydrate is methylated spirits (??).

[iopnr]

yeh ive used kreem and must say itll be the first at last time ill be doin it what a pain in the arse cheaper and less stressful to find a second hand tank depeding on the tank ofcourse, but does the job have had an issie with mine since it was done

[cammy9r]

i used this stuff called petseal to seal a new tank for a sportster or they would not warranty the tank??
the sealler cost £20 for 1/4 lt and it turned out to be acrylic9or was it polyester, cant remember) dissolved in styrene......fibreglass resin if not mistaken [i could be though but it smells the same and acted in a similar way to the resin i have used for many years].