Filling and smoothing plastic....

[dane_ra]

OK I'm starting to get near to the shape that I want my seat unit to be... finally. Plans and designs have changed numerous times and I need to do some filling and smoothing.

Would normal auto body filler (read bog) be the way to go for filling small areas and shaping plastic fairing?

And is it easy enough to find in auto shops or do you need to see specialist outlets[?]

Cheers, Dane

[03gixxerpilot]

sorry can't help you out but intrested in what you find out about it
keep us posted on how you go

[03gixxerpilot]

sorry can't help you out but intrested in what you find out about it
keep us posted on how you go

[fimpBIKES]

"bog" works just fine on plastic

although for large areas its better to plastic weld material in

my stock rear has been brought back from the dead with a combo of plastic welding, sanding and then bog to fill up the warping

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/731943582175828.JPG

in fact the top of my seat cowl was almost entirely shaped from bog cos it was ground down flat when i got it :D

[fimpBIKES]

"bog" works just fine on plastic

although for large areas its better to plastic weld material in

my stock rear has been brought back from the dead with a combo of plastic welding, sanding and then bog to fill up the warping

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/731943582175828.JPG

in fact the top of my seat cowl was almost entirely shaped from bog cos it was ground down flat when i got it :D

[Large]

that part of the tlr always reminded me of the platypus

[Large]

that part of the tlr always reminded me of the platypus

[dane_ra]

Thanks Fimp

Yeah, the seat section so far is made of about six different parts that i cut from the R6 tail and the original Fireblade tail to make the right shape, all plastic welded together.

I've done lots of filling with plastic but as you say, the warping needs more than just plastic.

I'll keep you all posted and post a pic when its done.

Thanks;)

[dane_ra]

Thanks Fimp

Yeah, the seat section so far is made of about six different parts that i cut from the R6 tail and the original Fireblade tail to make the right shape, all plastic welded together.

I've done lots of filling with plastic but as you say, the warping needs more than just plastic.

I'll keep you all posted and post a pic when its done.

Thanks;)

[TurboKat]

Aint you using that pointy, sticky-up-in-the-airy, Krauty jobbie any more Fimpy?

[TurboKat]

Aint you using that pointy, sticky-up-in-the-airy, Krauty jobbie any more Fimpy?

[fimpBIKES]

stock one comes off STRAIGHT after rego matey ;)

[fimpBIKES]

stock one comes off STRAIGHT after rego matey ;)

[cammy9r]

Rough up the plastic with some 60/80 grit paper and use either fiberglass paste or body filler.
If the surface is well keyed/prepared it will stick very well.

[cammy9r]

Rough up the plastic with some 60/80 grit paper and use either fiberglass paste or body filler.
If the surface is well keyed/prepared it will stick very well.

I'm looking at filling in the holes and etc on the GPz9 tail unit. What's best for filling in the large holes where the original indicators went[?].
It will require re-building the 'lines' of the tail unit as the mount holes are more like scallops out of the side.

I'm looking at filling in the holes and etc on the GPz9 tail unit. What's best for filling in the large holes where the original indicators went[?].
It will require re-building the 'lines' of the tail unit as the mount holes are more like scallops out of the side.

[BOHEMION]

Chalks i used the fiberglass paste or body filler that Cammy talks about on ALOT of dif things (not a bike yet) it works good. Dunno about re smoothing the lines though, Maybe a more fiddly job than orignally expected. I used to just sand over it till the hold was smooth and paint over.

[BOHEMION]

Chalks i used the fiberglass paste or body filler that Cammy talks about on ALOT of dif things (not a bike yet) it works good. Dunno about re smoothing the lines though, Maybe a more fiddly job than orignally expected. I used to just sand over it till the hold was smooth and paint over.

Sounds good Boh, but the indicator ones are the biggest concern, they are quite a large scallop out of the tail unit, and wasn't sure if body filler would hold. But I'll give it a go anyway. Might start stripping it back this weekend, everythng else is close to the painting stage, finally.

And Turbo, you'll be happy that the 'dodgy engineering', ie galvanised washer spacers, are now gone. The bars sit real low (and farkin wide) on the riser plate now.


Thanks for this.

Sounds good Boh, but the indicator ones are the biggest concern, they are quite a large scallop out of the tail unit, and wasn't sure if body filler would hold. But I'll give it a go anyway. Might start stripping it back this weekend, everythng else is close to the painting stage, finally.

And Turbo, you'll be happy that the 'dodgy engineering', ie galvanised washer spacers, are now gone. The bars sit real low (and farkin wide) on the riser plate now.


Thanks for this.

[BOHEMION]

You maye have to get in there with sandpaper and grit it all up so it holds

[BOHEMION]

You maye have to get in there with sandpaper and grit it all up so it holds

Will do

Will do

[damo1]

you cant put filler in to thick chalk it will just crack out over time
try get some plastic material as the fairing you already have it should
be ritten on the inside somewhere like pp, ppe, pps somthing like that
im pretty sure its pp most fairings are
then clean all the paint off both sides and use a soldering iron and you
just sort of stab at it to get it all tacked in then go over the in side the
same way once its all in there and tacked up,use the side of the iron as a sort of blade
and slide it along the joint pushing the melted plastic into the stab holes and the crack
thats left ,it will all melt together strong and will not crack if you do both sides
and melt it in well then just rub out with 120grit a little body filler finish that
off also with 120 and your done all up about probly 2hrs work ready for the paint shop.
good luck
or you could just give it to me and ill do it for you i owe you a favour.

[damo1]

you cant put filler in to thick chalk it will just crack out over time
try get some plastic material as the fairing you already have it should
be ritten on the inside somewhere like pp, ppe, pps somthing like that
im pretty sure its pp most fairings are
then clean all the paint off both sides and use a soldering iron and you
just sort of stab at it to get it all tacked in then go over the in side the
same way once its all in there and tacked up,use the side of the iron as a sort of blade
and slide it along the joint pushing the melted plastic into the stab holes and the crack
thats left ,it will all melt together strong and will not crack if you do both sides
and melt it in well then just rub out with 120grit a little body filler finish that
off also with 120 and your done all up about probly 2hrs work ready for the paint shop.
good luck
or you could just give it to me and ill do it for you i owe you a favour.

[damo1]

if you have any of your old fairing that will be the same plastic
so just cut your pieces out of that.

[damo1]

if you have any of your old fairing that will be the same plastic
so just cut your pieces out of that.

Cool thanks Damo, I'll give it a go.

Just looking around for an air brush kit at the moment, and have a stab at painting it myself. If anyone knows of reasonably priced (usable, and even 2nd hand) kits, be much appreciated.

Cool thanks Damo, I'll give it a go.

Just looking around for an air brush kit at the moment, and have a stab at painting it myself. If anyone knows of reasonably priced (usable, and even 2nd hand) kits, be much appreciated.

[cammy9r]

like damo said. The glass/filler is really just for finishing work. When i removed the grab rails on my other tail piece i welded a bit of old broken fairing to the back of the hole. I used a heat gun and an ABS rod (coz the fairing was ABS).
then used some f/glass to fill the hole. The heat gun had a reduction nozzle on it to take it down to 6mm. I think 250-300*c was enough to get the weld.
Without this reinforcement it will crack.
Good luck ;)

[cammy9r]

like damo said. The glass/filler is really just for finishing work. When i removed the grab rails on my other tail piece i welded a bit of old broken fairing to the back of the hole. I used a heat gun and an ABS rod (coz the fairing was ABS).
then used some f/glass to fill the hole. The heat gun had a reduction nozzle on it to take it down to 6mm. I think 250-300*c was enough to get the weld.
Without this reinforcement it will crack.
Good luck ;)

[damo1]

chalk i can get a brand new one resonably cheap for you
$125 for the airbrush and $32 for the braided air line
that they recommend but not compulsary.
you realise that an air brush is only for small detail
and fansy types of painting like flicking in the end of
flames,lightning bolts,and just really intricate stuff
and for fine detail.
do you see your self as a bit of an artist?
if not i could probly get a cheap spraygun as well or instead of
if you like,because you cant do a resray with an airbrush well you can
if its all art work well you could but fuck it would take a while.
if you did want either let me know by phoneing me because im going
on holidays for three weeks but could probly get one of the boys at
work to get it to you no probs or just hang on and ill do it when i get
back :0414690077
good luck with the body work cant wait to see the old girl with a new
lease of life.

[damo1]

chalk i can get a brand new one resonably cheap for you
$125 for the airbrush and $32 for the braided air line
that they recommend but not compulsary.
you realise that an air brush is only for small detail
and fansy types of painting like flicking in the end of
flames,lightning bolts,and just really intricate stuff
and for fine detail.
do you see your self as a bit of an artist?
if not i could probly get a cheap spraygun as well or instead of
if you like,because you cant do a resray with an airbrush well you can
if its all art work well you could but fuck it would take a while.
if you did want either let me know by phoneing me because im going
on holidays for three weeks but could probly get one of the boys at
work to get it to you no probs or just hang on and ill do it when i get
back :0414690077
good luck with the body work cant wait to see the old girl with a new
lease of life.

[dane_ra]

Chalk- Plastic welding with a soldering iron is a piece of piss...

just screw around with it for a while, weld stuff, break it, you'll get an idea of whats strongest.

I've just about finished "building" a headlight surround for my twin fighter lights out of the old bits of fairing from the blade. Roughly 18-20 parts all welded together to get the right curves.

I still need to find some time to get down to the auto shop to get some filler to smooth, then I'll post pics. I'm working 6 days atm so getting anything done is near fucking impossible.[}:)]:(:(

[dane_ra]

Chalk- Plastic welding with a soldering iron is a piece of piss...

just screw around with it for a while, weld stuff, break it, you'll get an idea of whats strongest.

I've just about finished "building" a headlight surround for my twin fighter lights out of the old bits of fairing from the blade. Roughly 18-20 parts all welded together to get the right curves.

I still need to find some time to get down to the auto shop to get some filler to smooth, then I'll post pics. I'm working 6 days atm so getting anything done is near fucking impossible.[}:)]:(:(

[Gsxar]

With the "filler" or "fiberglass paste", which is the best to use on plastic such as a switch box? To get rid of the final very small dents holes ect?

[Gsxar]

With the "filler" or "fiberglass paste", which is the best to use on plastic such as a switch box? To get rid of the final very small dents holes ect?

[fimpBIKES]

just regular body filler would be the way to go

the fiber stuff isnt really great for thin final touch-up IMO

[fimpBIKES]

just regular body filler would be the way to go

the fiber stuff isnt really great for thin final touch-up IMO

[Gsxar]

Hey Fimp I got told I need a "special 1 " to stick to plastic? is that true? or just buy what eva the guy at supercrap says I need;)

[Gsxar]

Hey Fimp I got told I need a "special 1 " to stick to plastic? is that true? or just buy what eva the guy at supercrap says I need;)

[ozkat]

be careful, ABS plastics and GRP will seperate because they vibrate at different frenquencies. causing 1 to vibrate different to the other. It may take years to seperate or it could only take a few weeks. to fill the small air holes left in the pink filler or glass use a product call golden glaze or similar. we use these products at work. or maybe Rich may have some advice.

[ozkat]

be careful, ABS plastics and GRP will seperate because they vibrate at different frenquencies. causing 1 to vibrate different to the other. It may take years to seperate or it could only take a few weeks. to fill the small air holes left in the pink filler or glass use a product call golden glaze or similar. we use these products at work. or maybe Rich may have some advice.

[Gsxar]

Ta OZ
I'll nick of and start a thread instead of butting in [:p][:p]

[Gsxar]

Ta OZ
I'll nick of and start a thread instead of butting in [:p][:p]