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View Full Version : Subframe welding



Rocket
20-03-2006, 08:20 PM
So here I am, with my recently purchased, used GSXRthou subframe, seat and all the bits and bobs (or are they "bibs and bobs" ?) and I'm working up the courage to get out the hacksaw. I then go and see a TIG welding guy about welding the mounting brackets onto my '92 GSXR11 for this new arse to bolt up to.
He tells me that no, he can't tig the subframe on unless the bike is stripped because it has to be laid flat to TIGweld it, then flipped over to do the other side etc etc. This doesn't sound correct to me, and it's not my intention to completely strip the bike at this time.

He then told me I should see an ally bullbar company who can MIG it on. But I'm not so sure that's going to be a neat enough weld (and strength is fairly important too I believe, especailly with my BFA on it)

What does everyone else do ?

Also I've heard I need to use the right aluminium to make the mounting brackets that will be welded to the frame. Anyone know what aluminium is the right one ? (and don't say silver coloured)
Even still, i would imagine the guys at "Scrap Metal R'us" probably wouldn't know which type of ally is what anyway....

cheers

EXBEN
20-03-2006, 08:40 PM
Sounds like that guy was being a bit of a dickhead, I tig subframe mounts onto complete bikes all the time. Go elsewhere, some one will do it for ya. You want to use 5083 grade as it retains most of it's strength after welding. It's readily available as plate over 6mm thickness. You can also get away with 6060/6061 but it will be softer after welding, so you shouldn't use less than 12mm for your brackets. With 5083 you can use 10mm.
I hope this helps.

EXBEN
20-03-2006, 08:40 PM
Sounds like that guy was being a bit of a dickhead, I tig subframe mounts onto complete bikes all the time. Go elsewhere, some one will do it for ya. You want to use 5083 grade as it retains most of it's strength after welding. It's readily available as plate over 6mm thickness. You can also get away with 6060/6061 but it will be softer after welding, so you shouldn't use less than 12mm for your brackets. With 5083 you can use 10mm.
I hope this helps.

EXBEN
20-03-2006, 08:44 PM
Oh & I would avoid mig on ally as it's weaker than Tig unless it is done correctly & it usually looks like shit. Most decent bullbars I've seen are tig'ed anyway.

EXBEN
20-03-2006, 08:44 PM
Oh & I would avoid mig on ally as it's weaker than Tig unless it is done correctly & it usually looks like shit. Most decent bullbars I've seen are tig'ed anyway.

Gix11
20-03-2006, 11:28 PM
Yea, he's talking crap mate. I took mine in with the bike totally complete apart from the subframe. I used a local mob who were recommended to me and they Tig welded my new ally lugs on and did a spot on job. (He didn't even take it off the trailer, let alone flip it and shit). The welds are better than the original factory ones (which isn't too hard to beat).

Gix11
20-03-2006, 11:28 PM
Yea, he's talking crap mate. I took mine in with the bike totally complete apart from the subframe. I used a local mob who were recommended to me and they Tig welded my new ally lugs on and did a spot on job. (He didn't even take it off the trailer, let alone flip it and shit). The welds are better than the original factory ones (which isn't too hard to beat).

Rocket
21-03-2006, 11:51 AM
That's just what I needed to hear guys. Thanks a lot.

I will go out and start the search for someone who will give me the right answers.

cheers

Rocket
21-03-2006, 11:51 AM
That's just what I needed to hear guys. Thanks a lot.

I will go out and start the search for someone who will give me the right answers.

cheers