Motherf#%$ing clutch Nut

[Seifer]

Ok in my attempts to split the crankcase to look at my transmission I ve gotten stuck when it comes to removing those two nuts holding in the clutch. Now after spending two days searching for the tools too take off the main one (50 fcking mm socket)and another two days trying to take it off. (Put cracks in 2 pistons in the process cause I had the block off and was being careless) Lucky ive ordered a big bore kit already. anyway im now stuck at the second bolt. For somereason it is torqued to some rediculous newton value and is impossible to get off. The tool i created to hold the clutch sleeve is 3mm thick and bending uner the pressure, not too mention the minor chips im putting into the sleeve itself. Has anyone else had these dramas and hopefully a peaceful solution. Im off to mend the various cuts I have across my hand. Damn u MR suzuki. ANy help guys?

[devo]

Advice is simple Buy a fucking rattle gun.:D[8D]

[Benz]

Don't buy a cheap one, I had the same situation getting my clutch basket out....had to go to the wreckers, and borrow the mechanics $800.00 one, the elcheapo I had, pumped up to 120lbs would not undo the bastard, his undid the nut at 90psi............

[Seifer]

Yeah i've decided to take it to a mechaanic and let them worry about it. WHat did you use to hold the clutch sleeve steady?

[Deano]

what motor is it. it sounds like gsxr1100. if so, i had the same problem. tried to use a 3/4 drive 50mm socket on a 3/4 rattle gun at the local earthmoving repair place. the larger nut wouln't move. what i ended up doing was grind down a standard socket to suit the nut in the centre that holds the clutch assy onto the shaft. once i got that off the clutch comes out as a complete unit.

good luck

[Seifer]

Hah wish i would of thought of tha/ knew that, i've already taken the big one off, god knows how i did it. And yeah thats the engine. Who puts a 50 mm nut on a bike, seriously... But again ive got a socket that will fit that nut, i just cant manage to keep the clutch still for long and hard enough to turn the nut with the amount of torque needed.

[Gix11]

Try what I do when removing the sprocket and stick it in gear, put a block of wood through the spokes resting on top of each swingarm arm top and then slip a barbell tube (from a weight lifting barbell or something similar) over the end of the wrench to give you a massive 5ft leverage. Actaully, now I think about it, with the clutch I got two flat steel bars andbent the ends over and then bolted them together in the middle like a pair of scissors. The ends then locate in the clutch sleeve while the other end wedges against your foot peg to keep it solid. This wine makes you waffle a lot. I think I'll have another.

[Seifer]

Yeah tried the bent metal idea but as I said it was buckling under the torque and pu tting chips into the clutch itself. ITs definately a job for the mechanics. Oh and engine is out of the bike so not much good chocking the wheel hehe. Cheers tho, have a wine for me mate.

[Docktor]

Fark Si, Drinkin wine at 5:30 ? , sounds like you are in for a fucked night, and a even fuckeder morning when ya awake. I dunno nothin about the nut coz mine aint fucked out.....yet

[Seifer]

Just found this on OSS, (Shame the forum has gone down btw)

Is it true that the older cluthes on the slabisdes are stronger?
Any way heres an idea for holding the clutch steady, genius really.

"Special tool two: First get one 400mm long piece of square section (20x20mm) bar and two old GSX-R clutch driven (steel) plates. Put the plates on top of one another and drill three holes equally around the diameter and secure them to the square bar using two M6x60 bolts and 20mm spacers and a couple of M6 nuts (this way, you can support the basket really well and reduce the chances off slipping, as the plates will be deep inside the unit). Finally put a small M6x10 bolt and nut through the remaining hole to secure the plates together. This is a wicked tool to have, when you’re trying to remove/secure the hub nut at 160Nm!"

http://www.oldskoolsuzuki.info/patrick/articles/clutch_conversion_by_lee/images/Special%20Tools.JPG

Looks like its the go

[Gix11]

........and advanced version of what i use........ Cool!

[Benz]

Slabbie clutches are supposed to be good for around 160 hp. They have a standard 4x spring operation, as opposed to the diaphram set up of the 1127 motor, and bandit 1200's. They have a virtually bulletproof stainless steel basket, which unfortunately has the habit of chewing the rivets out that hold it to the cogs, which gives them that rattle you hear from most. Balancing the carbs helps heaps, but they are still noisy, usually.
Too late now obviously, but this is one job you do in the bike if you can, and use the rear brake, to hold it firm, and rattle the bastard off.

[Jockney Rebel]

what benz said undo the nut.... when the lumps in the bike also loosen the crank nuts too[stator etc]

[Seifer]

"In war there is no substitute for victory."
- General Douglas MacArthur





http://w2.bikepics.com/pics/2007%5C04%5C15%5Cbikepics-865721-full.jpg

[speeddemon]

I had made the same tool for my dirt bike - works a treat

But Chadmas had a neat idea when his engine was out of the frame with no pistons - a long breaker bar fit perfectly through each gudgeon pin hole on each rod so the crank could not spin and load is distributed through all 4 so can take heaps. Shove a few rags in teeth near clutch if any slack and torque away with another huge breaker bar. Worked for him but you want a good fit so all load up the same.

[chadams]

old rags works the best.... no chance of breaking anything.....