Lipo battery help

[BANDITROD]

Hey guys/gals I am looking at getting the following battery for my bandit
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Yamaha-R1-R6-Light-weight-LifePo4-13-5v-Battery-650g-/260805307555?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cb9352ca3#ht_2572wt_126

What I wanna know is are the any good and has anyone had experience with them I would hate to see my bike go up in smoke (other than what comes off the tyre)

Cheers Rod

[latheboy]

Just get one and tell me how it goes, I could use a bit of the space where my battery is.

[BANDITROD]

Gee thanks ya fucker

[latheboy]

No problem buddy

[Hillsy]

Have a read over here

http://www.1000rr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54463

That guy put one in his racebike and his car and found them to be good.

[lurch]

I know of a few people who have bought these batteries from various sources, none of which lasted even 12 months. Also, they apparently don't like the newer types of chargers (CTEK, OptiMate etc), but I haven't had a chance investigate why. Old school tapered current charges are supposed to be better suited

[hooligan]

Have you seen these, Rod?

http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/batteries.php

http://www.shoraipower.com/default.aspx

[nick76]

The ripperton bloke in hillsy's link is a battery & electric bike wizz.
If you go to page six of that link,you'll see his latest kits.
Good set up,coz if a cell does break down,you can buy them individually for $5-10 each.
Im sure he sells them even cheaper than the ebay link at the top.
I do remember reading about charging these batteries,and i think he did say you need a special charger.
If your interested,im sure i could did up his number,and you can give him a call.
he's located in sydney.

[Redmohawk]

Its like this mate. The A123 cells are as tuff as, But there not a lead acid battery. Very similar characteristics in both charging and discharge etc , but not the same by a long shot.

A123 cells like to be charged at a constant voltage and constant current (not on your life in a bike setup) lead acid is fairly easy to keep happy just dont go to far over 13.8 volts and all is good.

The A123 cell packs will work just fine in the setup he is selling but the usable life will be considerably lower than the 2000 cycles they spruk on about as there not being charged or discharged as they want. Good news is there vertually fire proof compared to old lipo tech so it wont burn your bike down when it shits itself.

Comes down to do you want to shell out $200 a year for the lower weight, or would you just settle for a little heavyer and pay $50 for a sealed lead acid that prob last 3 years.

Lots of people over at RATS (http://nswroadandtrackbikes.com/forums/content.php) seem to be happy with Rip's batteries.

The trick is to buy the right charger. Just like the new Ryobi cordless drill I bought recently. Had to buy 2.4A LiFe battery and the correct charger to suit the battery.

[BANDITROD]

Ok thanks for the info guys the main reason I was going for that battery is because of limited room to put it I need it as small as I can get but still want it to perform like my old yuasa

[Redmohawk]

The A123's will do that , but you will prob find less greef by using a pair of small sealed lead acid tucked into tight spots.

[Tony Nitrous]

quote:Originally posted by lurch

I know of a few people who have bought these batteries from various sources, none of which lasted even 12 months. Also, they apparently don't like the newer types of chargers (CTEK, OptiMate etc), but I haven't had a chance investigate why. Old school tapered current charges are supposed to be better suited


Same here.
Folk have all gone back to Yuasa or similar within 12 months.

[Dynomutt]

Get a YTZ14, same size as a YTX9 but 230CCA which is more than enough to spin over my 1170cc Zed motor. 150mm X 87mm X 110mm

[pappas]

I have Lipo's for my RC and did a fair bit of research into them. Each cell needs to have the same voltage as the other (within 0.1v), otherwise they will blow up. My charger checks the voltage of each cell and ensures an even charge to each cell. Unless there is something in built into the pack you would have to check the voltage of each cell and if they weren't the same voltage you would have to charge each cell individually, or buy a LiPo charger. I would be worried about having the alternator charging the pack though.

[BANDITROD]

Ok cool thanks guys

[JackTar]

Fuck me not what I expected in this thread, I thought you were gonna ask if you could use electricity to burn away your fat arse with some sort of Lipo Battery, oh well my bad.

[Redmohawk]

Pappas , Lipo packs from R.C stuff very different to the stuff Rod is loooking at (different cell structure and chemistry) But still not ideal to run them straight from a lead acid charging system.

Can be done with a battery monitoring system to limit pack voltage and boost it when needed, also needs to shut off pack before low discharge to prevent pack life being dropped severly.

If I was Looking for a small battery with alot of punch for a bike , I'd been heading into a jacar shop/online and picking up eather a pair of 6 volt sealed class mat gell cells and stuffing them anywhere you like run in serise you get your 13.8 volts and a sealed lead acid will give you a 1/3rd more cold cranking amps than a wet lead acid of the same physical size. Battery sizes suitable are down around
5 by 5 by 10 cm and cost around $60 a pair to make your 12 volts. I run a 12 volt is 4.5 cm by 10cm by 20cm runs bike with 100watt high beam, heated hand grips no prob. Has lasted 2 years in November and has sat for 2 months just gone , went out and started her last night turned over without hesitation in cold of winter.