Any of you gun lovin weirdo's reload your ammo?

[336LJ]

anyone got a bit of time up hanging off a reloading press I'm having a few issues with case sizing (both full length and neck sizing) to suit my 303. figured its 1. totally random 2. a few of you ...I know are secretly preparing for the zombie apocalypse! which is why you never post up about your bikes...[8D]

[BANDITROD]

What seems to be the main drama mate I always reload my rifle ammo

[BANDITROD]

It takes time to get your dies set up right and once they are don't fuck with em to much I ended up with about 40 rounds that were no good when I first started loading my own rounds

[BANDITROD]

Btw I moved your dash thread to the advice section for you aswell

[BANDITROD]

You can trim down the length of the shell as well ....I use my deburing tool for this

[Large]

I usually throw my gun/ammo and clothing away after each use

[Redmohawk]

3 wild cats , some real big stuff and real small stuff over the years. Lube right , setup and write it down, Measure twice do a little run test , and your off.

[336LJ]

ok heres my main issue...
http://i824.photobucket.com/albums/zz168/Sarahpat85/brass.jpg
Factory round on the left, once fired case out of my 303 in the middle, Full length resized trimmed and chamfered case on the right.

when the factory ammo is chambered, no issues, maybe a bit sloppy but bolt closes fine, once fired brass ejects with no issues, if I full length resize and trim the cases (apparently taking it back to SAAMI specs) the brass seems a little bit sloppy chambering, so I figured I'd just neck size the once fired brass as its already fireformed to the chamber. you can see an obvious difference in the fireformed case the shoulder is very short (if thats the word) and forward more. I did this and the case is extremely tight chambering probably the last 3mm. to the point the bolt is almost impossible to close.

Interested to hear what any of you guys have done in similar cases, I'v been advised to full length resize but back the die off a bit so it doesn't pull the shoulder so far back down and overwork the brass, but being safe enough so that the neck doesn't chamber too far in and cause exsessive chamber pressure when the bullet is trying to uncork and the case neck can't expand properly

[336LJ]

quote:Originally posted by BANDITROD

Btw I moved your dash thread to the advice section for you aswell

I saw that and can't for the life of me work out where I posted it to begin with haha cheers

[BANDITROD]

Looking at your pic mate.. the case on the right is different and I would defiantly back the die off

Now also another thing I do is make a round with the projectile not seated all the way in the shell (if that makes sense) and I colour it in with black texta and I then put it in the chamber (don't worry about powder or primer for doing this) ....this is to find the sweet spot for your projectile ...you want it to be just touching the lans (rifling) this will have a positive effect on your the accuracy of your rounds

The reason for colouring the projectile is so you can see the marks of the LANs on your projectile and then you adjust your die accordingly until the projectile is just touching them if you have any more questions send me a pm mate

BTW what breed of loading gear are you using

[BANDITROD]

quote:Originally posted by 336LJ


quote:Originally posted by BANDITROD

Btw I moved your dash thread to the advice section for you aswell

I saw that and can't for the life of me work out where I posted it to begin with haha cheers
You had it in the for sale section lol

[latheboy]

I never reload the same amount of powder, I've never weighed my bullets as they change the second they get waxed...

For me that takes all the fun out of it. Anyway thats my excuse for being a shit shot:D

[BANDITROD]

Well what you use is a bit different Ivan lol it's fucking awesome

[BANDITROD]

And always full length resize as well mate and don't assume that the rounds you make for that gun will fit in others ....I made a shit load of .308 ammo for my old .308 and my mate had a howa .308 ...the ammo fitted in mine perfectly but when I dropped some in my mate guns it wouldn't fit with the exact same probs your listing above .......I sold my .308 and I still have about 100 rounds which are useless... and never assume your powder thrower is giving you exactly the same weight of powder every time either always weigh each shell....I know it takes a lot longer but it will make all the difference when it comes to hitting your target where you were aiming

[Redmohawk]

Mate the 3 cases you have in the photo 1st is a different brand (can tell by looking at rim of case as it doesnt have a rebate like the other two). The two cases on the right look longer than the first This is a potential issue, for a start so check there not over max length this could be causing your sticky issue with "just neck sized using a full length die".

Second the full length die is sizing them to far back for sure looking at the sholder of the full length sized case, it appears to far back to me (could be photo distortion but i doubt it) Resizing to far back then triming can make the case neck thicker (as brass nearer sholder with be slightly thicker than case neck) when its resized to far back some of this "sholder material" can be pushed into the neck area making a tight spot. Then when you push the bullet into the case it will make a very slight buldge in the case neck causing difficulty loading.

WARNING if this is the case and your using an old smle etc 303 it could kill you, they only handle about 35,000 cup and can streach/blow up under hight pressures !!!!!! If necks are tight you can buy a reamer to bring them back to correct size, usally fits into your case trimmer if you have a rotory one.

One a 303 cases should only be full length resized say every 4th shot and neck for other 3 , watch loads keep em mild as action will flex a bit and case life will suffer quickly with hot loads. (Not alot to be gained in a 303 stuffing heaps into them anyhow) use a bent piece of mig wire (little 90deg bend on end as a pointer) slip into case down too back near head and feel for a lip if you find one case is fucked. (bolt of rifle stretches but case is stuck in chamber due to pressure of being fired , head of case moves with bolt and about ist 4 mm of case the rest stays still) then when you reload it looks ok from outside but when you pull trigger weak point 4mm from case head lets go and you end up with a face full of hot powder.

First thing I would check is case neck thickness, good loading supply shop should have a reamer. Once case is resized pop it in rifle and see how it cycles if it feeds ok and no sticking load a projectile without primer or powder and try again. If it sticks its eather your projectile is to far out or your case neck is to thick.

A good way to setup your full length dies , take a pair of fired cases that look the same and a factory loaded round. Setup die very high in press and start sizing one case down till you just start to touch case sholder compare with fired case and factory case aim for just enough sizing to bring sholder of case close to factory. Minimal sizing is the key to longgevity of your cases, brass will only streach so much.

[latheboy]

I don't know much about smokeless powder (it'll never catch on ;))
But one thing i've noticed with black powder is that different grades of powder make a big difference in how they shoot.

Once you find a grade thats working for you stick with it, measure and measure again.

If this doesn't apply here forget what you've read.

I've seen what happens when using smokeless in old firearms (designed for black powder or at the time of transition to smokeless) and it's not pretty [xx(]

[BANDITROD]

Your spot on ivan

[BANDITROD]

Also here is a link to a good Aussie website that has heaps of info I am a member but I don't post very much
http://www.aushunt.com.au/Forum/index.php?act=idx

[Tony Nitrous]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNAohtjG14c&feature=youtu.be

[BANDITROD]

That's cool but what a tool

[336LJ]

yep as for the cases, they are different, factory one is highland, middle one prvi partisan (same factory) but VERY old - had to chuck out 280 once fired cases cause they are berdan primed.
and the one on the right is a federal case only difference you can tell is the federal ones always in the right light (camera flash in pic) have a much neater head/base whatever you call it where it joins the body of the case, where the extractor slots into when it grabs.

I'll be spending a bit more time again this weekend sussing these dies out, got a bit too keen and didn't think I'd be having these problems (or that it would matter) being that all the brass I have for the 303 was fired in my rifle anyway.
I'm guessing I'll have a few more issues reloading .300winmag. for my ruger hawkeye

I'm using the lee challenger press kit - cheap as - been trying different dies, currently want to reload 303, to replicate the original ball ammo made for them, and 223 cause I'm waiting for my REPLACEMENT 7615 (bought a brand new one, but got it home and had a look with a bore scope, some ass has taken it off the shelf, put a fuck load of ammo down it, and put it back without cleaning it! brand new pumpy, with a lovely layer of powdery green copper corrosion.. junk.

[BANDITROD]

I have always used rcbs loading gear I have a lee primer loader it's a good bit of kit the best way to learn is practice and more practice mate And don't drink and load lol

Oh and pm sent

[336LJ]

haha i don't drink thank fuck - I'm retarded and unco enough as it is. how I managed to survive this long with all my fingers and eye sight, hearing etc. I'll never know

the main reason for quadripledouble checking everything and not taking any chances, I let other people use my rifle to.

[BANDITROD]

Better to be safe than sorry especially when it comes to guns and shit mate that's for sure

[336LJ]

quote:Originally posted by Large

I usually throw my gun/ammo and clothing away after each use

shave your head, buyy a big pair of sunnies, sear your fingertips on the frypan to take off your prints etc? lol

[336LJ]

quote:Originally posted by latheboy

I don't know much about smokeless powder (it'll never catch on ;))
But one thing i've noticed with black powder is that different grades of powder make a big difference in how they shoot.

Once you find a grade thats working for you stick with it, measure and measure again.

If this doesn't apply here forget what you've read.

I've seen what happens when using smokeless in old firearms (designed for black powder or at the time of transition to smokeless) and it's not pretty [xx(]


yeah mate I got a recipe from a bloke right into his 303's (comp shooting n stuff) 41gr of 2208, behind a 174gr sierra match king, using magnum primers(?) apparently so close to mk7 ammo its not funny - but better consistency.
For some reason I'v ended up with what WAS 2206 powder (now superceded to AR2206H - ADI powders) and the max powder weight is 38gr, I'm just going to use 174gr boat tail FMJ projectiles, didn't have match kings at the time.
I picked up the ADI powders hand loading guide, all aussie info on aussie made powders so theres no confusion or guessing, only cost about 5 bucks too.

as for measuring and the advice above along those lines - I don't trust nuthin or no one, every single charge will be weighed, one by one, I got alot of spare time in the evenings!

[BANDITROD]

Good stuff Sierra match kings are the best projectiles IMO I used them in 220 swift and couldn't fault them mate and the ADI loading book is worth it's weight in gold mate they cater for everything

[Mishdog20]

quote:Originally posted by Tony Nitrous

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNAohtjG14c&feature=youtu.be


Wouldnt it have been easier to shoot it without it on fire....:D