Voltage

[StuNVA]

Just replaced the battery on the Tuono. Just wondering what the voltage should be with the bike running. It has a readout on the dash that says 11.5ish at idle and 12v at 4000rpm, just wondering if 12v is enough to recharge, was thinking it would have been 13 - 14v. Not sure if it's a problem or not as it still goes higher under revs, whats the easiest way to check the stator and regulator ?

[Large]

you need a multimeter.
Start the bike and measure across the battery terminals. It should read about 13.8 to 14.4 volts at say 3000rpm.
If it's only reading 12ish volts you've got an alternator or regulator problem.
If it reads high, say over 15-16 volts you've got a regulator problem and you'll boil your battery dry

[80s freak]

If you only have around standing battery voltage with the bike revving like Large said, then you need to find where the stator wires plug into the loom and/or the regulator/rectifier (reg/rec). There should be 3 larger gauges wires probably all the same colour (yellow in the diagram). Measure them for resistance to earth, you should have no curcuit (usually shown on a multimeter as OL, same as if you don't have the leads touching anything). Start the bike with the three wire plug disconnected, measure the voltage in AC volts, touch the probes between each wire, going off the diagram below, connect the red probe to one of the yellow wires then in turn connect the black probe to each of the other two wires, check your readings, then move the red probe to the next yellow and repeat the steps with the black probe, then agian move the red probe to the third yellow and repeat , you should have between about 19-30vac at idle, then hold the rpm at 4,000 and retest this time you should have at least 55vac
If you do then the reg/rec is at fault if not then it's the stator, if you are checking the readings at the reg/rec end be sure to check for broken wires between the stator and the reg/rec.
If you have a bad stator you may also have a dead reg/rec, there is no way to really test this without a good stator.
The other problem I have found in the past is if the stator is good check the voltage coming out of the reg/rec directly at the unit (bare a small section of the output wire) because I have seen bad wires from the reg/rec to the battery, so no charge can get thru. You can replace the power and earth wires with some that connect directly to the battery so that all possible regulated charge can get to it.
Hope this helps and doesn't make your head explode.


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[bladehunter]

When will ppl learn that electricty does not exist.

First thing to check is the o-rings. If they are perished the smoke will get out and nothing will work.

The IC engine is an exception to this rule.

[StuNVA]

Thanks, I'll get a multimeter tomorrow and do it right.

I replaced the stator wires to the regulator today. They reckon the brown connectors are shit and burn out, so I just soldered in new wire and no connectors. So should not be losing anything through there...maybe. I'll check as per the diagram tomorrow, thanks a lot.

[StuNVA]

quote:Originally posted by 80s freak

If you only have around standing battery voltage with the bike revving like Large said, then you need to find where the stator wires plug into the loom and/or the regulator/rectifier (reg/rec). There should be 3 larger gauges wires probably all the same colour (yellow in the diagram). Measure them for resistance to earth, you should have no curcuit (usually shown on a multimeter as OL, same as if you don't have the leads touching anything)

Stationary voltage was 12 running was 11.5

Correct, nothing showed when grounding the yellow wires.

Start the bike with the three wire plug disconnected, measure the voltage in AC volts, touch the probes between each wire, you should have between about 19-30vac at idle, then hold the rpm at 4,000 and retest this time you should have at least 55vac

I just shaved a bit off the wire instead of actually unplugging between the stator and reg as it is all soldered together since I ditched the connectors. If this is the same well the reading was bugger all at idle ranging from 0 - 1.8v, I gathered there was no point testing at 4000rpm. I might go back to before the join near the stator side and check all the joins I soldered before I write the stator off.

If you do then the reg/rec is at fault if not then it's the stator, if you are checking the readings at the reg/rec end be sure to check for broken wires between the stator and the reg/rec.
If you have a bad stator you may also have a dead reg/rec, there is no way to really test this without a good stator.
The other problem I have found in the past is if the stator is good check the voltage coming out of the reg/rec directly at the unit (bare a small section of the output wire) because I have seen bad wires from the reg/rec to the battery, so no charge can get thru. You can replace the power and earth wires with some that connect directly to the battery so that all possible regulated charge can get to it.
Hope this helps and doesn't make your head explode.



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[StuNVA]

One new stator $385 kaching....that hurt my gold valves savings plan.

[Deano]

That's a great post Geoff thanks for taking the time to right it up. That info will come in handy one day I am sure