gman oh no crank

[g man]

hey people i think i got huge drama with my baby gsxr 1000 02
started to hear a knock thurs went stright to my mech and was told
its my crank sell the bike !!!!!!!!!!!!! oh no my man we will not be selling my baby .... do i need to rebuild the engine or can i just do the crank tight bugget is a pain in the ass !!!!!!!!!!!! need help:(

[Gitzy]

Not sure If I'm the only one thinking it, but to me that is a prick of a mechanic.. telling you to sell a problem bike to some other poor bastard, that's not good..

[Shadowzone]

I'm with Gitzy, I'd be firstly getting a new mechanic and secondly rebuilding the whole donk.

Sounds like time for an oversize kit or to decompress and turbo it :D:D:D

[g man]

even if oversize no matter what its pretty much a full re build

[Hagarr]

WHY?

Is it using Oil? Blowby?

If theres no top end damage just pull engine split cases check crank replace bearings.

Piece of Piss!

Couple of Hundred Bucks if you can remove the donk yourself I would have thought!

[Booster]

i have spare rods if you have damage
quickest way to tell if there is crank probs is dump the oil and look for copper , only place with copper in the motor is in the mains and big end bearings, or sump off will get a better view of bigger chunks .
also with the clutch basket out you can get to no 4 big end , look for heat staining or excessive free play
definitely do not run it again untill you check,

[RevHead]

as hagarr says ,,but id get crank ground n linished to make sure all journals are round,

[Booster]

can't grind them Pete at least not here in Aus & no under size available only a range of bearing sizes to select from ,to get within spec with variations in rod and crank

[RevHead]

ok suppose u could check the journals size and make sure they are all round,

[Dynomutt]

The biggest cause of big end failure is debris being wash through from the main bearings into the big ends. Has the bike felt buzzy at all recently, or has it been over revved. Clutch pack debris from slipping/burning clutches can get passed the strainer and through a cheap filter. There are a lot of different causes for big ends to start going, but if it has only just become apparent then simply drop the motor and split it, remove the crank and check the condition of both the main bearing shells and the big ends, check the journals for ovality by measuring them with a decent micrometer with the correct anvils, and measure at several points all the way round the journal.
If they are still within the manufacturers tolerances for roundness then get some Plastigauge and measure the oil clearances on each of the journals, to work out which shells you need. The colour codes are on the very edge of the shells, and are usually black, green, yellow, or brown for Suzukis.
Usually the corresponding codes for the journals will be on the crank ie A,B,B,A for the big ends, and usually a group of 5 or 6 letters A,B, or C depending on the number of main bearing journals the codes for the main bearing holes will be on the crankcases, again a group of letters corresponding to the number of main bearings, these will tell you what size the journal should be and the size of the main bearing hole that the shells fit into, the rod should be marked with a code as well usually a 0,1, or 2 etched across the joint to tell you the size of the rod end.
All in all it shouldn't take very long to do. I would also check the output from the oil pump, a high performance 4 stroke with plain bearing crankshaft should be pushing out something over 90psi oil pressure at 5K rpm as a minimum guide, the Suzuki manual will tell you the exact pressure.

[g man]

dynomutt your a beast!!! thanks all for your info and help !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
great group of blokes we have here at ASF was wrapped with the back up from you all boys
will keep you all updated