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Draven
24-11-2010, 12:37 PM
Righto, finally got the 7 home to start working on it... stripped the fairings off (what was left of them), tank, seats... Then started looking for the main damage... water and oil leak... well pretty much found both in one hit,

Went to start taking the water pump off and realised it was abit loose, hmmm obviously thats where the leak is then as i was turning one of the bolts i noticed a piece of metal turning aswell, the main brace has snapped off the engine, which stopped the o-ring on the water pump sealing around the engine, cause oil to leak out... Now my question is, is there anything i can do to re-attach this piece back to the engine?

http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h270/87Ninja/IMGP3422.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h270/87Ninja/FUCK.jpg
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h270/87Ninja/IMGP3423.jpg

latheboy
24-11-2010, 12:49 PM
Looks like a weld job.
You'll need to strip everything off in that area to get at it and you might only be able to weld one side.

I would be worried about the possition of the stand off and also about the part your welding to moving from the heat.

Someone else might know better.

xa-mont
24-11-2010, 12:49 PM
you could try JB weld or something similar i guess.

latheboy
24-11-2010, 12:53 PM
Even better...... Do the big block conversion and put a 900 in it

xa-mont
24-11-2010, 01:01 PM
Now there's a constructive idea!!! Do that!

Draven
24-11-2010, 01:22 PM
Thanks guys, hmmmm if i had the $$$ i would love to through a ZX9 motor in it, but sadly funds are abit short :(

TurboKat
24-11-2010, 02:03 PM
quote:Originally posted by xa-mont

you could try JB weld or something similar i guess.

You're a fucking genius mate.
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1290596049.gif



Welding it back on is the way to do it proply but if you don't want to go down that path, I'd be drilling all the way through the broken off bit using the original threaded hole in the end as a guide, set it up in situ & CAREFULLY & VERY SLOWLY drill through the case taking care not to let any swarf drop into the inside of the hole.
Once you're through, you can use a torch & a right angled dental pick to determine how much material around the hole & how much depth you have to play with, this will determine your best method of repair, eg - casesaver, threadsert, etc.
If the case is thick enough at that point you could stick a Helicoil in it & use a longer bolt to 'sandwich' the repair together - maybe with some industrial strength aluminium bonding agent on the base for a bit of extra insurance.

xa-mont
24-11-2010, 02:07 PM
Just putting the suggestion out there.

Redmohawk
24-11-2010, 05:29 PM
Aluminium "glue" has very little shear strength XA as it only attaches the two parts through mechanical means. The bolt will pull it right off again with very little force needed.

I agree with TK, welding is the go but to do it right will be a big job, far to much heat needed in that area to do it right without striping motor.

First I would ring around local bike wreackers/mechanics/dealers and see if you can find a block striped to see whats behind where the repair needs to be done, if you can. Looks from your photos to be an area where there "may" be some meat behind it to take a reasonable amount of thread, if so .

I would drill the broken piece mounted in a drill press alined to the original hole with a small drill bit around 2.5 mm to make a pilot guide hole.

Looking at mounting bolt lower on block in your photo , and assuming the broken one is of similar size/bolt diam etc. You don't have alot of room to go "up" using case saver etc and being what should be a relitively low load point I would lean towards going down a size in mounting bolt. Assuming it was a M8 going down to say a M6 but using a high tensile to replace bolt then you have some head room for a case saver with internal 6mm thread to screw broken mount to motor case then use longer 6mm bolt through the lot.

Cutting the thread from broken piece to motor case will be critical, I suggest making and using torsion plate to locate the broken piece.
Use a bit of say 5mm steel plate copy outline of water pump where it mounts to motor drill holes for lower mount , broken mount, and another for the bolt above the broken one in your photo. Glue broken part in position with some locktight then torque down torsion plate over broken piece to mount securly then you can use a electric hand drill with a steady to get your hole at 90 deg to plate. And the broken piece wont move a mm when you tap your new thread into block.

Good luck!

Swordsy
24-11-2010, 07:06 PM
If you know an aircraft frame welder, they do a good job of fixing up engine cases. Has one weld up my old XR motor when the kickstarter spring mount broke off. Was as good as new then.
Cost me a case of beers :D

livewire
25-11-2010, 01:22 AM
Drill and tap a thread into the case thats left and put a longer bolt in? Helicoil into case?
Maybe use some JBWeld or a stack of washers for the height. Or even drill out the hole in the broken bit
and use it as spacer?

Redmohawk
25-11-2010, 05:23 PM
Found some M8 and M6 sleeves in my old tool box, Pm me you address if you like and I'll post em to you. If your going to use the M8 and use the same bolt diam as was originally in there you will need a M10 tap and from memory a 9.3 mm drill to put it in. Where you get the tap from will know the correct dril size. There the flared type but if you cut the flare off or file them down a bit and cut a grove into the top of one you can screw it in with a flat bladed screwdriver.

Photo for you to see what I'm on about first is a M8 bolt then a M10 nut, two M8 sleeve's is M8 internal M10 external, two M6 sleeves .

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1290670194.jpg

Booster
25-11-2010, 07:00 PM
Sort of agree with just about everyone, glue the broken bit on with jb. the water pump will need to be installed and bolted to the broken bit for alignment .. then when set drill the hole through and tap (rag under the hole through the water pump opening for swarf) , jb is surprisingly strong for this sort of thing as long as the surface is clean and you can get a fair bit of surface area . use a thread sealant on the bolt when its finally installed , don't over tighten it, water pump doesn't need much tension .
based this rec from my US landspeed 750 thats water pump is held on exactly in this way and front guard has one jb weld mount and seen lots of stress without probs

Redmohawk
25-11-2010, 07:18 PM
I'd be inclined to aim for not going through the block entirly if you could avoid it. I would hope you could get 10 mm of thread into the block without going through. With the broken piece glued on and screwed as well I would hope that to be more than sufficent for a water pump. But happy to be doubted/corrected.

livewire
25-11-2010, 08:38 PM
What breaks this bit off?
Dropped chain, or shit metal/design that gets 'torqued' off when tightened.
Just realised I said the same thing as TK had, obviously not taking everything in at 2+ AM.
Would be easier to just drill out broken bit and rely on case thread/helicoil than
line up threads in both case and broken bit, but.

RevHead
26-11-2010, 06:27 AM
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1290802051.jpg



looks like a hair line crack[V]

Draven
26-11-2010, 12:15 PM
quote:Originally posted by Redmohawk

Found some M8 and M6 sleeves in my old tool box, Pm me you address if you like and I'll post em to you. If your going to use the M8 and use the same bolt diam as was originally in there you will need a M10 tap and from memory a 9.3 mm drill to put it in. Where you get the tap from will know the correct dril size. There the flared type but if you cut the flare off or file them down a bit and cut a grove into the top of one you can screw it in with a flat bladed screwdriver.

Photo for you to see what I'm on about first is a M8 bolt then a M10 nut, two M8 sleeve's is M8 internal M10 external, two M6 sleeves .

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1290670194.jpg





Cheers mate, pm sent :)

Draven
26-11-2010, 12:16 PM
quote:Originally posted by revheadpete

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1290802051.jpg



looks like a hair line crack[V]

Just had a bit of a look, doesnt look like a hair line crack, but ill check it out properly on my next day off, but if it is, i think ill bee in all sorts of trouble...

Draven
26-11-2010, 12:37 PM
Well it looks like that little piece of broken metal is the last of my worries... Ill let the picture do the talking... Doing a ZX9 engine change is looking better and better...
http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h270/87Ninja/FARRRRRRRRRK.jpg

xa-mont
26-11-2010, 01:52 PM
yup, you need a zx9 motor... its the only way!

Redmohawk
26-11-2010, 02:06 PM
haha thats fixable mate, all you need to do is squeeze it up again with say a band of packing strip metal (resonably high tensile) do a wrap around a bit of wood etc slightly bigger than the external diam of your housing. Put the ends into a old 3/4 inch socket drive extention with a hacksaw cut in the end and turn it around with a wratchet a few turns to make a clamp. Then just put it around your housing and give it a few squeezes till it looks about right, just go easy and take your time will work fine, done it before myself on something similar. Then a bit of JB weld on it, once hard file, emery cloth to tidy up. Is a low load area will be fine.

Or put in a 9 lol

latheboy
26-11-2010, 04:04 PM
Thats been machined to size for a reason Red, you can't clamp it back and hope for the best.
Big job but I'd be bore out the hole weld in a bose then re-machinig if you have no choice. Epic and exy but not that hard.

Get yourself a zx9r motor, all the cool kids have done it.

Redmohawk
26-11-2010, 04:17 PM
Yeah I feel you Ivan, but its only a water pump. The only issue it would face once the mounts are sorted is blow by pressure from crank case I'm guessing the water pump has a O ring on it. A little blue gew and she should be good no ?

Besides the webbing on the oposite side to the crack should hold the walls of the housing in alignment, from the damage done to the bolt lug and the crack in the housing it looks like most of the force of the impact was directed towards the crack. Making it very likley that the webbing has held the oposite side of the housing in alignment (certainly close enough to align a waterpump driven buy a T drive anyhow)

Again happy to be disputed, as always.

Redmohawk
26-11-2010, 04:43 PM
Draven got you addy n note , forget money mate its just junk outa the old tool box , just get the bike on the road and alls good.
Bits sent off hope it helps.

Jockney Rebel
28-11-2010, 02:35 AM
will a zxr750 motor fit that ? cos i know where theres a couple of L1s on the coast

Draven
16-12-2010, 11:13 AM
quote:Originally posted by Jockney Rebel

will a zxr750 motor fit that ? cos i know where theres a couple of L1s on the coast

Not to sure...