ZX10R Instrument Cluster Swap

[Xenocatalyst]

Hello All,

I'm new to the forum and have come in search of technical assistance.
I'm from Orange NSW and ride a 1982 Honda CB900F, which I have been improving on for the last 6 years.

There is a bit reading ahead and any help you may offer would be greatly appreciated.
After having got all but the finer details sorted I thought I was happy with the bike, I was Wrong! (Or stupid)

All I needed for it was stiffer fork springs, rewiring, a few little cosmetic things and install the new exhaust.

I ended up buying some second hand wheels, forks, triples and controls.

So I set out with these goals in mind:
- Upgrade to wheels, forks, brakes, triple clamps and controls from ZZR1200. done
- Install CBR1100XX swing arm done
- Make new headlight mounts done
- Make new wire harness delayed
- Install new exhaust in progress

During the course of doing these things I also decided to:
- Custom taillights next year
- Custom rear hugger guard next year
- Coil on Plug setup easy wiring mod
- Hydraulic over cable clutch system (no idea if it has any benefits) later
- Braided Brake Lines next year
- ZX10R instrument cluster Current Issue
- fuel injection mod next year

Back in march this year
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/Xenocatalyst/MyBike20100610_01.jpg

Most Recent progress
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/Xenocatalyst/Mods/05Mockup01.jpg

So there's my introduction. Here is my Problem.
The Kawasaki ZX10R Instrument Cluster.
http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/Xenocatalyst/Mods/0607ZX10Rspeedo01s.jpg


I am currently testing the cluster using the power supply from a pc.
Upon powering up it runs through the startup diags and everything is fine, as per the manual.
The blinkers, High beam, oil warning, neutral and shift lights all work as expected and the fuel warning light flashes.

First up, how to turn off the fuel warning light?
Second and most important how to wire up the speedo sensor?
Third, best way to input the Tach signal.

If you have got this far, thanks for sticking with me.
If you know what it is I need to do, please let me know.
I'll now run through what I have gathered from the manual.


Turning off the low fuel warning light: Replicating the Fuel Reserve Sensor
Basically a connection to ground and switches the warning "somewhere around" the 10 ohm resistance mark. (stated in the manual)
To test the function of the warning light the manual says to connect to negative with a rheostat set to roughly 10 ohms.
It doesn't tell you which side of the 10 ohms triggers the waring light.
I have both a 10 ohm resister and a 20k potentiometer. I tried both.
Directly earthing the contact to ground: no change
10 ohm resistor in line: no change
Potentiometer in line: turned off once, somehow. I have not been able to get it to work again.

The speed sensor.
The manual says put an oscilloscope in line and connect to negative. switching between 0v and 5v @ 575 Hz
Alternatively if you don't have access to an oscilloscope, raise the rear wheel and spin to see if there is a signal showing on the speedo.

2 problems here, no oscilloscope and no bike.

The sensor i have is from a 1998 ZX6 but is used on most the models zx6/9/10/12 through to the 2009 at least, except for the
06 07 model. Coincidently this is the model instrument cluster that I have. But it should still work.

The zx10r sensor has 3 contacts one to ground, another to ground throught the ECU and the other to the speedo.
Simple? perhaps.

The bit that gets me is that the wire to the speedo is also connected to the +5v from the ECU, not through the ecu to the speedo but also connected to the ecu. My guess is that the signal to the speedo is set at 5v and the sensor works to vary the signal
+ or - from that point to produce a frequency.

I haven't yet tried configuring the connections in this way. I will try tonight if I find the time.

Out of curiosity, I put the multimeter from ground to signal input on the cluster, strangely I get 12v. I just dont get it.

Tach Signal
The manual also states to test this with an oscilloscope, otherwise rapidly open and close a connection from negative to the input pin.
I think i have tested this but as i have been sick the last few days of testing i cant remember.
An easy test anyway.

But where to tie the input signal from? From my thinking, the pulse coils. They will give the correct frequency, but what about the voltage?

The manual says that when using the oscilloscope, to oscillate between 0v and 10v. Will it be safe to use the pulse coils?


Once again Thank you for your time.

[Gitzy]

Roy.. I can safely say I have no idea and cannot help you at all.. but damn that CB is coming along nicely..

Top Job so far mate, keep it up and you should start a build thread and grace us with as much info on the whole build as you have in your intro..

Hopefully one of our electrickery gooroos can help you on this one..

Welcome to zee madness..

[Xenocatalyst]

Thanks for the encouragement, I have been documenting the build on CB100F.net http://www.cb1100f.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=56837 and more pictures at photo bucket http://s802.photobucket.com/albums/yy309/Xenocatalyst/Mods/.

I managed to get the fuel waring to turn off when the resistance is somewhere above 400 ohms. The taco doesn't seems to work yet.

[Redmohawk]

Last first , the tach signal would most likley be the neg coil post (if your really concerened about high voltages from back emf of the coil, and I wouldnt really be. You can wire a Large power diode (say 4 amp minimum) across the Pos to neg coil posts it is a little black doova with two wires and a line on one side of the case put a 1 watt 16 ohm resistor in line with it , get from dick smith or better jacar electronics wiring is simple as. Wire with line on side goes to positve side of coil other to resistor then last resistor to neg will short out High voltages before they get to your cluster.

Speed sensor Needs to be switched from 5V + to ground , the comp is providing the 5+ volts but is also prob reading the signal for speed cut etc if it is programed into the ecu (option factory may or maynot use depending on where the bike is sold etc) Not an issue for you though as not ecu but you need 5+ volts to drive your cluster so while your at jacar/dick smith ask for a 5 volt reg as well as your diode and resistor. The 5 volt regulator is like an electric tap put 12 volts in 13.8 etc and out the other side will come clean stable 5 volts is simple to use to has 3 wires in out and ground . Get the blokes at jacar to show you which is which , usally if you hold the Reg with the plastic case with the writting facing you the leg on the left is "IN" so positive from ignition goes there centre leg is ground so just earth it well to the frame somewhere or into your loom ( make sure its a comon "good" earth with your cluster) the last leg on the right is out and 5+ volts if you use a bike sensor with 3 wires etc just use it as it was setup on the other bike but use the Regulator to supply the 5+ volts instead of the ECU doing it. Otherwise you can use a magnetic reed switch and a magnet on the wheel run the 5+ volts to the reed switch the other end goes to your cluster to give the cluster the neg or earth signal just pickup another 1 watt resistor of say 32 ohms from jacar wire one side to the cluster with the wire from the reeed switch and the other end goes to the same good earth on your loom.

Ignore the reference to a oscilscope is just a way to see whats going on for a visual reference when working on stuff like this , I have one and rarely use it lol The cluster may provide a floating supply from the wires (12 volt reading) as alot of chips when not grounded will tend to float around a bit.

The warning light will turn on at less than 10 ohms I would bet and above 10 ohms it should be off , from memory and I drink alot so its a bit fuzzy most bike fuel senders are around 2000 ohms (2k ohms) max but i could be wrong as i said i drink lol If you need more info just drop me a line . Good luck.

[Redmohawk]

Warning if you have a capacitive distcharge ignition you cant put the diode across the coil as it will see to high a voltage all the time and burn out, works fine with conventional ignitions (ie points or standard electroinic ignition)

[Xenocatalyst]

Hi Guys, I've got some good news.

I have been able to test that the speedo and taco functions work.

Using a drill press and a bolt I was able to replicate the test signal for the speedo. Using the 6 corners of the bolt head to make and break the connection at a high speed.

Later using the teeth on the drill chuck i managed to get a working signal from the speed sensor. Changing the speed of the drill i was able to verify that the speedo was changing with the speed of the drill.

I also managed to get the taco working by using a crank sensor in the same fashion.

With all the problems solved i can now proceed with the install.

[Redmohawk]

Top stuff mate , Amazing what you can cobble up when you need to isnt it lol

[Booster]

The zx 10 speed sensor wire going to the ecu is probably just a reference for the ecu and not necessary in your app

And the zx 10 tach output will be a controlled voltage , way less than you will see with a coil neg, definitely use something to dampen or limit the voltage like Red suggested .