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View Full Version : HOW TO: Prep 'n' Paint - The Start....



RevHead
12-06-2010, 09:47 AM
ok i had to replace my original tank as it was rusty inside,
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276301576.jpg

i bought this one it was damaged,NOW i used automotive paint stripper ,not bought from a hardware,i then taped the filler hole closed to stop stripper getting in there,also taped over the fuel tap hole as well,,ok,brush paint stripper onto tank,and leave for 30 minutes,DONT DO THIS IN THE SUN ,AND DONT PAINT STRIP YOUR PLASTICS,UNLESS YOU BOUGHT PLASTIC PAINT STRIPPER,or you will melt all you plasticS ,, get a scrapper and scrap tank; do not gouge the steel,IF the paint is still hard to remove a thicker coat of stripper is needed
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276304351.jpg

OK heres the finished product ,a tank in bare steel,what i do is wash the tank with gun wash thinners an a few rags to clean off the goo left over from the paint stripper ,then i dry it with clean rags [i never wash it with water ]after the tank is clean and dry ,i hand sand the whole tank with 100 grit dry paper,to help clean the tank even more,then i clean with prepsol ,and then wipe the prepsol off with a clean rag,NOW your ready to panel beat your tank if you need to bog up you tank for a few repairs,Dont buy body filler from your hardware,they sell shit thet drys harder then concrete,,get a soft sandind bog from your paint shop,ispon,davids,upol are a good brands,http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276376404.jpg


bog wont fix everything ok remember that

NOW i did my repairs,i bogged all the damage ,i started with 36 grit speed file sheets
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276324965.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276331759.jpg


i then used 100 grit dry paper with a soft block to even out the repairs and remove the bigger deeper scratches,then i etch primed the whole tank and let it dry or 1 hour,etch primer is a base for all other paints to hang on to ,,then i used Debeers primer/filler kit mixed at a ratio of 2 to 1
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276378980.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276325455.jpg


using the measuring stick supplied by the debeers company,
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276394527.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276322216.jpg

also this is wot the guide coat is for so you can see its flat
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1277275504.jpg


i gave the tank 3 coats of the primer/filler ,1 coat every fifteen minute ,thats 45 minutes i also use a darker colour to guide coat the part ,a lite mist spray as a guide to rubbing it back ,if the black mist is gone then generally the part is flat and ready for some colour
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276345914.jpg

ok,reducer,is thinners ,but only for 2 pak paints
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276343561.jpg

then there hardner
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276400366.jpg

i leave the primer to dry for 24 hours,,,THEN depending on the colour,if its a solid colour ,say white i wet sand the primered parts with 400,600 grit so the scratches wont show up,if its a metalic colour ,i use 600 to 800 grit paper wet then i clean the part with prepsol then make sure you wipe the prepsol off after with a clean rag,then use a tack rag to remove any little bits of shit that are still there,THEN mix your colour ,this is the BASE COAT,then spray it on ,base coats,are air dry in 5 mins so in 30 minutes you should have the base coat on that on part,like so
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276374294.jpg


masking and fine line tape and patterns we,ll work on later,now go and mix up your clear and give your part 2,3 good coats 1 everyfifteen minute ,,if you put it on too quick you,ll get curtains,,RUNS
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276367525.jpg

BEFORE CLEAR COAT
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276409993.jpg

AFTER CLEAR COAT no buffing required,unless you paint a run then you block it out wit 2000 grit wet n dry,[rub it out]
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276379135.jpg

this 1st photo shows 1 coat of colour,you can use a red or a maroon as a base coat to cover the primer if you colour wont cover it
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276773443.jpg

this is after 3 coats of colour before clear

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276707663.jpg


REMEMBER TO WEAR A BREATHING MASK,NOT A PAPER FACE MASK,
ive also got an old fridge from the dump to use as a storage,cupboard,it air tight and keeps all smells in
any questions please ask, cheers angryrevhead ,bahahahaha

Gitzy
12-06-2010, 03:05 PM
http://i493.photobucket.com/albums/rr292/Gitzy84/Random%20Pics/thumbs_up.jpg

Awesome stuff Pete..

nick76
12-06-2010, 05:54 PM
Top stuff.
One quick question for those like me that have no idea,if the tank and panels are good,and you just want to change colour,is it as simple as giving it a light rub,and re-painting,or should it all be stripped back,and started from scratch??

RevHead
12-06-2010, 06:21 PM
quote:Originally posted by nick76

Top stuff.
One quick question for those like me that have no idea,if the tank and panels are good,and you just want to change colour,is it as simple as giving it a light rub,and re-painting,or should it all be stripped back,and started from scratch??
if the paint is good not damaged knock it back with 600 grit wetndry,wet of course,when its all flat i like to give it a lite dust of primer before i add the new colour,call me picky ,i like to know the new colour is going to stay put,there is a quik thing painters call wet on wet, dust of primer,3 coats of colour,then clear do this over an hour in a clean warm dry place, hope this helps cheers

wackyrider
13-06-2010, 10:12 AM
Hey Pete, do rub the base coat lightly before you clear coat it?

RevHead
13-06-2010, 02:40 PM
quote:Originally posted by wackyrider

Hey Pete, do rub the base coat lightly before you clear coat it?
you could if you wanted to but i dont its hareder to cover the scratches,,in yrs gone by some painters put 1 coat of base coat,then rub it then another coat of colour and so on,,thats called flow coating ,Personally i wouldnt cheers

336LJ
15-06-2010, 11:32 PM
howd you sort that dent out? I want to pop mine out, but the only way I know how to do this is to cut the bottom of the fuel tank out and re weld it after the dent has been hammered back into shape again. I don't want to use bog to fill the hole, just to smooth the hammer marks etc :(

fimpBIKES
16-06-2010, 12:07 AM
good to see your sharing your experiences pete

perhaps a quick word of warning about 2-pack wouldnt go astray

RevHead
16-06-2010, 08:37 AM
@ lj366i i used my mates ezy beat, it a slide hammer that welds its tip to your tank and you just pull the dent out it took about 2 hours to pull out i did burn 1 small hole in the tank, ,then you just use an easy sand to clean up with cheers

336LJ
23-06-2010, 12:50 AM
quote:Originally posted by revheadpete

@ lj366i i used my mates ezy beat, it a slide hammer that welds its tip to your tank and you just pull the dent out it took about 2 hours to pull out i did burn 1 small hole in the tank, ,then you just use an easy sand to clean up with cheers


thats awesome, whats it look like and how much? I think I have seen them before, much the same, but easier, as drilling a hole and using a slide hammer/rivet type thing, then welding it back up

RevHead
23-06-2010, 07:54 AM
there about $600 try to become friends with your local beater and in time ,,arh mate can i borrow your easy beat ,its so simple to use ,when using it work from the outside of the dent towards the middle and youl find it,ll come out quiet easy,i,ll put up a picci of my mates easy beat. with this easy beat it spot welds itself to the outside of your tank,no holes to weld or drill no fuel leaks cheers

mattymagoo22
30-07-2010, 09:19 PM
Shouldn't you be really careful when welding petrol tanks, isn't there a good chance it could explode ?

RevHead
02-08-2010, 08:24 AM
quote:Originally posted by mattymagoo22

Shouldn't you be really careful when welding petrol tanks, isn't there a good chance it could explode ?
welding up fuel tanks is ok,,theres a copule of methods to getting the fuel vapor out 1 wash it out with soapy water,2 put the filler hole over the exhaust of a running car ,so that the exhaust fumes burn away the fuel smell ,but sometimes u still get the odd bomb,lol/years ago i had an rz500 tank that was almost fucked with damage,so i tired it to my bench ,nd spent 10 m inutes flicking matches into it ,then bomb it blu almost every dent out of it,it scared the fuck out of me when it when up,lol.tank wasnt to bad after that only a little bog to fix/dont try to do this ,you,lll end up dead ,

mattymagoo22
02-08-2010, 09:16 PM
And to think OHS has put an end to such imaginative repairs.... The kids of today are missing out on so much fun!

RevHead
02-08-2010, 09:55 PM
quote:Originally posted by mattymagoo22

And to think OHS has put an end to such imaginative repairs.... The kids of today are missing out on so much fun!
:Dyeah i.ll never do it again lol

thewiz
03-08-2010, 06:18 PM
great work i just about to get mine painted a panel shop did the dents in my tank and i was going to have a go at the paint job but have have spent lot of dollors on the bike so i want a nice paint job witch i cant do one of my mates mates is going to do it black with a lot of depth .
you post will help me out next time .

scotty
04-08-2010, 01:13 PM
quote:Originally posted by fimpBIKES

perhaps a quick word of warning about 2-pack wouldnt go astray
like the fact that it can kill you?

RevHead
04-08-2010, 08:13 PM
hey wiz know worries,@ scotty^^^^^ there no cyanide,in 2 pak anymore so if u use it in a well ventilated area yull b right mate,plus wear an approved mask

scotty
05-08-2010, 08:03 AM
sweet
Another caution i thought of pete is to take into account of who lives around u, some people get real shitty if ya get ova spray on there nice clean washing

RevHead
06-08-2010, 08:24 PM
quote:Originally posted by scotty

sweet
Another caution i thought of pete is to take into account of who lives around u, some people get real shitty if ya get ova spray on there nice clean washing
fuck the washing,lol;ova spray is a bastard,but do your painting on a still day