My Autodesk Inventor (3D) Assignment

[wackyrider]

As I mentioned before, I have an assignment for my Autodesk Inventor class. Only been using the program for a couple of months (1 month really working on it). Pretty happy with the results up till now.

Here's what I am up to this evening, after a few hours of work. It's not finished yet, needs to be completed and assembled by the end of the month.



http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275498490.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275496320.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275513279.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275558674.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275560284.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275500276.jpg

[fimpBIKES]

nice one!
if you left click on a surface, then right click and hit properties
you can change the colour of just that surface (rather than the whole part)

so with you embossed lettering, if you only go down 0.1mm with the extrusion then make the end surface black it will make it stand out really nicely

oh, and with the triple clamp
i think the bit where the shank of the bolt is going should be a clearance hole, rather than a thread
but its looking really good

what are you looking to do as that big assembly now, a front end?

[Gitzy]

Loooks great Jules, wish I could do that stuff..

[wackyrider]

quote:Originally posted by fimpBIKES

nice one!
if you left click on a surface, then right click and hit properties
you can change the colour of just that surface (rather than the whole part)

so with you embossed lettering, if you only go down 0.1mm with the extrusion then make the end surface black it will make it stand out really nicely

oh, and with the triple clamp
i think the bit where the shank of the bolt is going should be a clearance hole, rather than a thread
but its looking really good

what are you looking to do as that big assembly now, a front end?


Cheers fimp, the embossed lettering is actually black already, however it is a bit deeper. As for the clamp, I had forgot about it. [:I]

[sharky]

Great work but personally...lose the Julian T....it's a bit french...

[latheboy]

Don't forget to chamfer all your holes, 0.02mm is enough and you missed an edge on the top clamp on the right hand side where the slot is.
I think you should have a larger radi where my fantastic paint arrow is pointing. Also a radi on the chamfer in that corner.


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275532437.jpg


Well done Jules

[Hagarr]

I've been doing 2d for a while, have always wanted to learn 3d.

Looks like I need to get my arse in to gear.

Looks great.

Latheboy, you must know this stuff Huh??

[wackyrider]

Cheers Ivan
Hagarr, if you're used to 2D, you won't find 3D difficult. Just need to get yourself a book on it or do a short course

[lous_1979]

Great info guys.

A quick question i was after a sutdent/free version of any of the 3d design packages or autocad can anyone help?

[wackyrider]

PM sent

[latheboy]

No promblem Jules, Also i typed 0.02mm were as i meant 0.2mm...

I know a little, just enough to make me dangerous;):D

Also i would make the face where your clamping holes are tangent to the OD, easier for machining.

[Deano]

ivan

i am not happy with the radius and angle of your arrow in jules' model. i believe that a guy with your talent really should have done better. from my experience a 45.677754478deg arrow head with 4mm radi and 6mm fillets works best.

please try to keep up

[JackTar]

I concur with the fillets.

[TurboKat]

MMMMM .... Fillets

[Gix11]

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275632412.jpg


I'm just jealous I don't know any 3D shit after all these years of working with computers....

I do like Kippers from the Isle of Man though.

[wackyrider]

:D:D:D

[BANDITROD]

prepare for my awsome paint skills you will notice the fillets i used deano lol
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275598663.jpg

[Deano]

i think they are within tolerance mate

[oldskool]

MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM KIPPERS MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

[latheboy]

I was slack sorry guys, ill model up the arrow and dimension it up for you later today

[latheboy]

Ok i wont have time later today so i did it now.
Jules the Super Fantastic Awesome Arrows are pointing at the places i think your model needs some work.
Dean, I hope the SFAA is more to your liking now with an angle of 45.677754478° (note the deg symbol) with 4mm Rad and 6mm fillets.:D

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275610995.jpg

[Tony OW31]

quote:Originally posted by latheboy

Ok i wont have time later today so i did it now.
Jules the Super Fantastic Awesome Arrows are pointing at the places i think your model needs some work.
Dean, I hope the SFAA is more to your liking now with an angle of 45.677754478° (note the deg symbol) with 4mm Rad and 6mm fillets.:D

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1275610995.jpg







I reckon the radius on the point of the arrow is too large, and could lead to ambiguity as to its actual point of reference[:p]

[wackyrider]

Spent another hour working on the project. Not finished yet, but almost there :D

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276079533.jpg

[wackyrider]

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276102832.jpg

[Gitzy]

Looking good Jules, so when should i expect my lumps of billet goodness in the mail for me R1.. [:p];)

[latheboy]

If i can make another suggestion.

In the bottom clamp were the shaft goes through, Put a step in so the step on the shaft sits flush with the bottom face.
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276060760.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1276036357.jpg

I would also make the shaft like this but better of course.
Step the bottom clamp and bolt it in from the bottom with counter sunk caps screws. Nice and flush.

[wackyrider]

Good idea Ivan. Cheers. Will do that tonight

[fimpBIKES]

why do you need to have bolts in the bottom face like that?
wouldnt they hit the bearings?

[latheboy]

quote:Originally posted by fimpBIKES

why do you need to have bolts in the bottom face like that?
wouldnt they hit the bearings?


That depends on were the bearings are, if they are hanging down underneath the bottom clamp then sure there'll hit.
But if like ALL other clamps the bearing is on the "top" side of the clamp and the cap screws are in the "bottom" i can't see them hitting unless you dill all the way through and use nuts(gaids).
Id make the shaft on size to the bore and use a cap screw just for safe keepings.

Use your engineer brain fimp, come on.

[Large]

I don't have supergayarrows to spare...but I thought the shafts were always a press (interference?) fit

[latheboy]

I think your right Large. Thats mass production, pressing it in in the fastest way to the end product and less parts so its cheaper. Custom jobs can be anything.

[Large]

quote:Originally posted by latheboy

I think your right Large. Thats mass production, pressing it in in the fastest way to the end product and less parts so its cheaper. Custom jobs can be anything.


I've seen a bloke who makes great custom triples use the stock stem. Apparently it saves a lot of time/fucking around because you know it already fits the headstock of the bike it's from

[latheboy]

HAHA i havn't met this bloke in person but i've seen pics of his work, like your clamps?
Thats a fair point about the stock stem.

[fimpBIKES]

quote:Originally posted by latheboy


quote:Originally posted by fimpBIKES

why do you need to have bolts in the bottom face like that?
wouldnt they hit the bearings?


That depends on were the bearings are, if they are hanging down underneath the bottom clamp then sure there'll hit.
But if like ALL other clamps the bearing is on the "top" side of the clamp and the cap screws are in the "bottom" i can't see them hitting unless you dill all the way through and use nuts(gaids).
Id make the shaft on size to the bore and use a cap screw just for safe keepings.

Use your engineer brain fimp, come on.


of course! no-where near the bearings
im awake now...

4 bolts seems like over-kill though, its not like they are doing that much once the top nut is done up tight and the clamps around the forks are tightened too

the triples i have just have a pinch-bolt setup, like around the fork legs

pressing is ok, but i think its nice to be able to pull things apart with handtools
no reason you couldnt pinch-bolt to a standard stem of that particular bike (once its pressed out)

[dane_ra]

I love inventor, here's a vid I found a while ago - shit quality, but amazing modelling.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0T2uQYNUu6c

[wackyrider]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cAnGphbLiy4

[Gitzy]

Bravo Jules, great stuff.. I tried playing with Autodesk Inventor 2010 the other day, tricky stuff.. well for me..

[latheboy]

Nice work frenchy, are these just for the project or are you planing on making them?

C/F bars is a nice touch

[wackyrider]

In the future maybe Ivan. Not for now for sure. If I do decide on making them I'll have to do a few small modifications to the design. Measurements have been rounded off when i was designing this. But easy enough to fix if need be

[JackTar]

Could have put another mirror on ya lazy cunt.