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Booster
25-04-2010, 02:47 PM
Just sold old faithfull:( had her for 7 yrs and done lots of stuff, 2 trips to the salt, drag raced , everyday road bike and long distance touring
Here at Casino
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/maj750/afr0851ii0.jpg
First year at the salt in 04 ,198 mph
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/maj750/saltbackup021.jpg
This year at the salt , 218 mph
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/maj750/Boys08113.jpg
Final specs, 01 busa,gt30r, air to air intercooler,slightly beefed up motor and clutch

Replacing with this
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/maj750/IMGP6567.jpg
08 busa
going to get a gt30r ,water/air intercooler, and needs lots of motor mods to keep it reliable , later busa's are not as good for turbo as the early ,
And yes it keeps the tupperware, if i was going to remove that i would have just brought a B-King , nearly did except for the price of this bike :D
Will keep adding to this as i build the turbo kit

rock hard
25-04-2010, 04:22 PM
Fantastic Greg,looking forward to seeing it progress..BTW a while ago i suggested that if you had the time could you rite a piece about the run at the salt from a builder/rider point of view, im facinated by the speed trials but only know from what ive seen/read.i would love to know what you need to do during the run up to full speed ,the afect of wind and other factors ,i know i should just have a go but not at the moment,anyway good on ya for what youve already achieved with much more to come..

Iceman
25-04-2010, 04:32 PM
Shame to see the old one go, but new projects are always fun. I'll have to come over and have a look.

Booster
25-04-2010, 06:03 PM
Morry i have good intentions of writing that piece, figure if nothing else it may help others that have thought about coming out for a run, may actually take a whilt till i can sit down and put it together, have a few vids and pics to include (if i can figure out how to embed a vid .
Have to wait till after next weekend at least Clint, 08 is still in QLD , no time even to fly up and ride home so its a carrier job to get it here
may find it landing on your doorstep yet , will need an excuse to take the new one out and get familiar with it :)

rock hard
25-04-2010, 09:13 PM
Thats fantastic greg, thanks mate

sharky
25-04-2010, 09:38 PM
I can ride it down for you mate ;);););)








And you just pay fuel,accomodation,return air fare,beer money etc :D

Iceman
25-04-2010, 09:42 PM
It's ok with me if you get it delivered here. I promise i won't ride it..............much.

Booster
25-04-2010, 11:20 PM
I have a feeling courier may be cheaper than beer money Russ :D:D

Not ridable without sorting out the dodgy ign switch, these had a recall , routing of the switch wiring pulled on the wires , this one has an intermittant fault, , shouldn't take long to track it down , but not likely to go around the block without some pushing at the moment

Iceman
26-04-2010, 09:14 AM
quote:not likely to go around the block without some pushing at the momentsounds like half the bikes I already own

Booster
21-06-2010, 08:43 AM
Quick update..
Don't try and get a VIV in Vic at the moment, the system sucks, been waiting for 5 weeks to get on the waiting list for an inspection,now on the list but no booking of a time or place yet, will be notified when there is a vacancy....

Booster
21-06-2010, 09:00 AM
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1277147948.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1277160221.jpg


But while waiting i have been collecting some parts
Going with a water/air intercooled, gt30 turbo, engine management will all be done by reflashing the std ecu ,
for those that are interested you can download the reflash program for free here http://macmadigan.no-ip.com/ecueditor/

The plenum pictured is actually off my current 750 build , but the parts for assembly are for the busa,

currently waiting on the headers and wastegate mounts, brought them this time as i was getting in 2 other kits and getting a good deal for buying bulk .

80s freak
21-06-2010, 10:57 PM
Hey Greg the delay for VIVs is due to the hail damage. We have been told could be up to 3 month wait.

rock hard
21-06-2010, 11:43 PM
:)[8D];)

Booster
22-06-2010, 09:18 AM
Yep the hail damage and a system that was never designed to cope with the numbers , hail was in March, talked to a viv centre last week, they had been quiet untill 2 weeks ago when Vic roads finally got things happening...other problem is if you have hail damage and you have a booking you can register your vehicle and then get it inspected within 6 months, but if accident damaged you have to wait till its inspected :(

Anyone have any ideas of rolling the plenum after installing the spigots and cooler, like to have the welds internal if possible , thought about making a custom roller with a long handle, like a small pipe bender but on a larger scale and anneiling the aluminium if necessary to make it bend easier, 3mm material

Tony OW31
22-06-2010, 01:22 PM
quote:Originally posted by Booster

Yep the hail damage and a system that was never designed to cope with the numbers , hail was in March, talked to a viv centre last week, they had been quiet untill 2 weeks ago when Vic roads finally got things happening...other problem is if you have hail damage and you have a booking you can register your vehicle and then get it inspected within 6 months, but if accident damaged you have to wait till its inspected :(

Anyone have any ideas of rolling the plenum after installing the spigots and cooler, like to have the welds internal if possible , thought about making a custom roller with a long handle, like a small pipe bender but on a larger scale and anneiling the aluminium if necessary to make it bend easier, 3mm material


What sort of shape are you trying to do?

latheboy
22-06-2010, 03:00 PM
Fencing wire and twine, come on farmer Greg:D

Like tony asked, it would be easier if we knew what shape your after.

Booster
22-06-2010, 06:28 PM
End result like the plenum with water intercooler attached above
or on its own
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1277242613.jpg


Realy like to weld the intercooler on first before folding as trying to get into the tight angle if assembling after folding is difficult with the thermal mass of the intercooler and the much thinner plate
and if the spigots or velocity stacks could be done on the inside too that would be the cream on top :D

Booster
23-06-2010, 04:34 PM
WOOO HOOO ...Booked the VIV , 1 July , will try and book the roadworthy and rego the next day
Then the fun can begin :)

Booster
12-07-2010, 06:38 PM
Well what a pain the whole viv etc is but its finally done
now back to playing
Powdercoated the new swingarm
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1278979106.jpg

Welded in the velocity stacks and intercooler core, now to see if i can fold the plenum from sheet form to the finished shape.
plan b is to cut it ,roll the top and weld it back on with the seams at least on the bottom

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1278925574.jpg


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1279013259.jpg


had Aussie desertcoolers make me the heat exchangers, very nice job

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1278957483.jpg

the nylon braided hose and fittings are due this week
and will be checking out the in tank pump and non pressure referenced reg later this evening, plan b here is to have a external 1:1 regulator if i can't get the internal regulator to the pressure i want, squashing regulators in the vise is not an exact science, practiced on one last week and went from 55 psi to 80- psi in ~.5mm crush but 43 psi to 55 psi took 1.2 mm :(
picture me with a bucket of fuel, a intank pump fully mounted in its fitting, in the bucket , a pressure gauge connected to the pump outlet, and 2 wires coming off a battery via a switch dissapearing into the fuel :D worked well , but i was not goint to be leaning over it at any time, those 2 wires were quite long...

sickboy
13-07-2010, 03:50 PM
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y196/sickbouy/afrbathurst061.jpg
nice work Greg,heres a pic i took at Casino 08'of the ol'girl.

Booster
13-07-2010, 05:04 PM
Thanks Ken
Nice pic :)

Still not sure i have done the right thing selling her, new one feels gutless at the moment .

testing the new intank pump showed it was not up to the task, in tank filter must choke it a fair bit even though it seems to flow through fine , could only flow 1000cc/min at 65 psi which is about 1000cc short of my needs,.... does 1600cc at 43 psi (roughly 300 hp)
if anyone wants a hi flow bosch in tank pump to fit in std suzuki position , call me .

Redmohawk
13-07-2010, 05:16 PM
Could you run two pumps in there back to back ? If theres room? I did that in an old carb celica tank to get them hidden in tank with then T'ed inside the tank .

Booster
13-07-2010, 06:55 PM
Pump sits in a neat fitting well in the bottom of the tank, i'll just put an external pump on it, worked fine for the last 10 turbo's i have done was just looking for a std looking under the tank option, but i'm not about to compromise hp for neat ;)

could put an 040 bosch in the tank but with all the stuffing around mounting and plumbing its just simpler to do it external

Redmohawk
13-07-2010, 07:00 PM
haha you've seen betty , I care little for pritty lol

Booster
14-07-2010, 07:38 PM
Normally i'm more for function over form too but i gotta admit seeing realy nice jobs done on such a variety of bikes here has inspired me to try a bit harder this time
heat exchanger is mounted
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/maj750/08busa12.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v378/maj750/08busa14.jpg
Had to bend it a bit more to fit in tighter , bit nervous when i put it in the press but it bent ok between a couple of blocks of pine 4x4 and a 4" pipe

latheboy
14-07-2010, 09:00 PM
Oh shit ... how long where you looking at the press with it ready to go before you give it a push?

Have you done the plenum yet... You need a piece of pipe to role it around ....

Booster
14-07-2010, 11:52 PM
about 2 secs :D, if i stopped long enough to think about consequences i would miss out on too much fun [:p]

Keep getting work interfering with play, i want to do the plenum when i have time to make a proper roller, maybe on the weekend, lots of other stuff to do , i'm making 3 of everything 1 for me and 2 for mates .
Tomorrow i want to get the fuel system up and running including the wiring for the intercooler pump it will be on the original fuel pump wiring and also triggering a relay for the new fuel pump circuit

Redmohawk
15-07-2010, 12:33 AM
Yeah that work shit can be a real pain in the ass when the fun is really happening lol

Booster
27-07-2010, 08:10 PM
Been getting a bit more done
Up pipe cut into the ram air tube,

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280235304.jpg


Fuel pump , reg and general lay out
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280268439.jpg


Fitting the cyls on the freshly coated pistons, 2mm decompression plate in gold
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280245891.jpg


Titanium valves and light springs removed, they don't like heat much , replaced with std 99-07 valves and APE 65LB springs
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280322098.jpg


Decompression plate lifting the head 2mm rolls the cams forward, so a spline tooth is cut from gear and the gear repositioned on the master spline on the crank to put the timing as std,
real handy that the gear has 18 teeth and 17 splines , works out that for each spline the gear is rotated its a ~.5deg advance or retard depending on direction, 5 teeth do nicely
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280270184.jpg

Surt
28-07-2010, 12:59 AM
any thing wrong with ur cell phone Booster? meaning the dates? [:p]

latheboy
28-07-2010, 07:10 AM
"2mm decompression plate in gold"

Did you win the lotto Greg?
Why gold?
What fuel fliter are you using.. 10µm .. 40µm?

Redmohawk
28-07-2010, 09:33 AM
Na Its just ballast Ivan haha, looking good greg.

Booster
28-07-2010, 01:17 PM
Bloody camera, looses its memory when the battries are out, i'll get the right ones one day and be able to charge it "in camera"

Only coppercoat Ivan, Aluminium spacer
Not actually sure in the filter , enough to keep the big bits out of the pump , at least there the stainless screen type and not the sintered bronze, have a pet hate of them.

Hagarr
28-07-2010, 01:45 PM
Hey Greg why have you opted for decompression plate, seems a helluva lot of fuck around with the timing chain thingamy!

Machine pistons, alternate?

Booster
28-07-2010, 06:38 PM
Pistons are thin enough already,even aftermarket turbo pistons use a decomp plate as you can't get a good dish in the piston and proper quench or piston to head clearance between the piston pin and head without lifting the cyls and head up ..
The timing sprocket only takes a few min s to do and its easy to get out out anyway with the cyls off , pre 05 there was no master spline and you could just rotate the sprocket ...
Guys in the US fit adjustable sprockets and set the timing at ~105 deg but i figure the std timing at 102-105 is not too bad and if i can put it back to that i'm happy , my racebike gets more like 110 deg to move the torque curve higher and give it a few more rpm before it noses over but i would rather more bottom end torque esp as i will loose about 20hp with the decompression, (but put back 50 with more boost)

NakedTurboBusa
28-07-2010, 09:29 PM
greg,

what injectors are you using mate. I have an 044,rising rate reg...big fuel rail blah..... base spacer... should we run sloted gears?

cheers

Pete

Booster
28-07-2010, 11:05 PM
Pete its a whole new ball game with the 08+
2 x 280cc injectors/cyl std, with the ecu editor stuff now i can program the std ecu to do boost based mapping,vary the ign dwell for more spark energy,onboard boost control, turn off fault codes from disused sensors,and heaps more
www,ecueditor.com is where you can download the programme and see its capabilitys and, www.boostbysmith.com has the hardware

I have never compared the hp between retiming the cams or not, heard one report of something like 7 hp it advances the cams ~3.5 deg which will put your power earlier in the rev range and at worst limit the rpm your bike can pull, it may not be worth doing if your happy with how its running
i don't bother when doing a 1mm spacer , but did notice on the 750 with 2mm spacer and not retimed that it couldn't pull passed 12000

Booster
03-08-2010, 07:10 PM
Bit more done over the last few days
Plenum is rolled , actually happened quite easily once i started putting together the bits to roll it

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280888161.jpg


ends in, bov mounted, still to do the tiedown mounts
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280848559.jpg

How neat are these RCC headers, one piece cast flange with the pipes fitted in and welded, and a 2 yr warranty

http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280833528.jpg


While i was doing the plenum i gave the compressor housings and up pipes to the local powdercoater, looks like a natural part of the bike now


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1280843319.jpg


Started the bike for the first time last nite, fired first turn and ran sweet, just have to do the exhaust from the wastegate out and i can have somewhere to hang the o2 sensor and dyno it [:p]

rock hard
03-08-2010, 08:27 PM
nice work Greg,was interested in your cam timing specs.its always good to see what works in different applications and engine configerations

Hagarr
03-08-2010, 08:40 PM
By no means am I an expert but changing lobe centres on cam timing in my experience simply moves the power around doesn't necessarily give you any more e.g. retard timing more cylinder pressure more torque advance it less cylinder pressure but better top end, of course things change when you are charging the cylinder but thats my experience.

Standard I have found is generally the best if you can get it to work.

rock hard
03-08-2010, 09:15 PM
Depends what you want to do dan, when i fiddle with the 4 valve ducatis i tend to advance the cams with a smaller lobe centres to give them a little more low down and bigger lobe centres for the two valves gives them a bit better breathing up top,But with rockets turbo i left the cams where the original engine builder set them..like i say depends on the configeration and what you want to achieve..Hey Booster does the dish pistons reduce the tendency to detonate ?

Booster
04-08-2010, 12:23 PM
There std pistons and by using them with a spacer i probably have compromised on detonation control, after market have the right piston/head clearance for proper quench with a spacer plate fitted , maybe its less a problem with the turbo, at high boost levels the airspeed at the valves will be nearly supersonic , figure thats pretty good turbulance
I like to be conservative with cams on the turbo's, likes of Jo's bike i put in earlier gsxr cams to get back some mid range that would have been lost by the decompression , trying to make a more linear powr curve rather than a 2 stroke feel
105/107 deg is favored by the busa guys, i think i'm probably more like 103/103 , my race busa with an inlet on exhaust on the other hand is 108/108 and the 750 with web cams is 110/110
As Hagarr says its just a matter of moving peak torque around to a favored place , no different to NA but the effect is exaggerated some, mostly by low compression with what are essentially huge cams if you compare to the old school car stuff

rock hard
05-08-2010, 08:00 AM
interesting

Hagarr
05-08-2010, 08:42 AM
quote:Pete its a whole new ball game with the 08+
2 x 280cc injectors/cyl std, with the ecu editor stuff now i can program the std ecu to do boost based mapping,vary the ign dwell for more spark energy,onboard boost control, turn off fault codes from disused sensors,and heaps more
www,ecueditor.com is where you can download the programme and see its capabilitys and, www.boostbysmith.com has the hardware

I have never compared the hp between retiming the cams or not, heard one report of something like 7 hp it advances the cams ~3.5 deg which will put your power earlier in the rev range and at worst limit the rpm your bike can pull, it may not be worth doing if your happy with how its running
i don't bother when doing a 1mm spacer , but did notice on the 750 with 2mm spacer and not retimed that it couldn't pull passed 12000


Yeah Greg I am using the ECU Editor on the B-King and am impressed with its adjustability and extra functions it has.

The B King has now got the quickshift functionality which I will be going with, a guy I know has installed on to his Busa and he is more than happy with it.

Oh by the way luv ya work!

Booster
05-08-2010, 08:00 PM
If you get a yen for easy cheap HP, put a shot of dry nos into the B-K, i did a gen 1 busa and flashed it to suit, So easy, only need the bottle, lines,solenoid, spraybar (Owner built which was a drilled aluminium block with 4 brake flarenuts and lines for outlets ) and associated loom , took a slighty warm busa at 180hp to a strip animal at 220hp

Putting a bit of extra effort in is realy paying off with the satisfaction i am getting as each day is done,
When i first brought this bike and eventually rode it , it was good but had no soul , well now it has ;)

05-08-2010, 10:38 PM
Greg, spoke to a guy the other day about the hose fittings you got from the US. Says some of them are made in China-- not as strong as they could be.
Bike,s looking real good
cheers Bones

Booster
05-08-2010, 11:44 PM
Bones at roughly 1/5th Aussie prices i'm fairly sure there made in China, fine for water fittings, esp with the lightweight nylon braided hose ,
Just had a good laugh, went looking for a link and i found there advertising on Aussie ebay now
http://stores.ebay.com.au/Towers-Racing-Products-LLC_AN-to-Pipe-fittings-straight_W0QQ_fsubZ3556923QQ_sidZ63649161QQ_trksid Zp4634Q2ec0Q2em322

Bike hits the dyno tomorrow and getting a run at Heathcote weekend after this

Booster
12-08-2010, 07:08 PM
Ok well lots of mucking around with setup and faulting loggers etc but its basicly done,
bit of wheelspin (jagged lines), these 2 runs are 12 psi and 14 psi
156 and 175 ft/lbs 324 and 342 hp
current settings are 4 psi in 1st and staged to 14 in 6th
now to put the plastic back on and ride it


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1281619345.jpg

BANDITROD
12-08-2010, 07:21 PM
fuck me thats some seriuos power there greg well done mate she's gunna be a fucking handfull

MONO
12-08-2010, 09:59 PM
I'll supply the hands (no charge)

Hagarr
12-08-2010, 10:13 PM
excellent!

legion
13-08-2010, 12:10 AM
quote:Originally posted by Booster

Ok well lots of mucking around with setup and faulting loggers etc but its basicly done,
bit of wheelspin (jagged lines), these 2 runs are 12 psi and 14 psi
156 and 175 ft/lbs 324 and 342 hp
current settings are 4 psi in 1st and staged to 14 in 6th
now to put the plastic back on and ride it


http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1281619345.jpg



Guid day Booser! Ah loove th' bludy curves huir uv a much! she's gonnae be an awesome motur join ussssss!!!!!!

latheboy
13-08-2010, 08:19 AM
Holy shit Greg, I really like the boost to gear tune.

What does the "OL" stand for on the graph?

Booster
13-08-2010, 09:17 AM
Exceeded my expectations some, i would have been happy just over 300hp at 14 psi but the intercooler and turbo choice seem very well suited to the bike

Ivan nothing beats having similar thrust in each gear, OL is the overlay graph which in this case is the 12 psi one
Software is pretty basic on my dyno but the simplicity suits my purpose

one casulty of the 3 tanks of fuel i used getting it how i wanted
http://www.asfphotos.com/upload/1281683089.jpg

Redmohawk
13-08-2010, 09:33 AM
Hey booster when you get back I must grab the info on a DIY dyno if I can, mostly the software and roller dementions weight etc than anything, although the idea of building it into a larger bike trailor is appealing. Might knock one up myself and maybe put up a how to on here.

On a Side note I've noticed that most higher powered runs on dynos seem to really eat tyres fast (faster than the road with big power runs) I'm assuming this is due to the roller diam changing pressure gradient on tyre (from contact patch being different) causing different heating in the tyre. Is the software capable of being adapted to different rolling diameters to improver roller shape (Diam) to reduce this issue? Or is this a moot point at the power levels your currently playing with?

latheboy
13-08-2010, 01:14 PM
quote:Originally posted by Redmohawk


On a Side note I've noticed that most higher powered runs on dynos seem to really eat tyres fast (faster than the road with big power runs)
Ummm No... We have held over 2000HP and not had issues with rubber.

I'm assuming this is due to the roller diam changing pressure gradient on tyre (from contact patch being different) causing different heating in the tyre.

It's roller design that is the problem, if the knurl is too sharp it'll cut the tire and if it's to smooth you will always get wheelspin.
Inertia, ramp rate, how you tie the bike/car down and a host of other things greatly impact upon how the dyno works.
Generally the larger the roller Ø the cooler it stays

latheboy
13-08-2010, 01:18 PM
Can you take a picture of the roller please Greg?

Booster
13-08-2010, 01:18 PM
I think its harder to hookup on the roller , my suspension is pretty much bottomed out with 4 ratcheting tiedowns , usually tie to the swingarm too but i don't want to damage the fresh powdercoating..

dyno info here http://wotid.com/dyno/

Gsxar
13-08-2010, 02:12 PM
Freak!!! Thats a lot :D Saw it last weekend looks fast & tough :D:D

Redmohawk
13-08-2010, 07:02 PM
Thanks Ivan I'm glad I was thinking along the same lines, Figured bigger Diam was the way to go just have to re hash all the calc's to work out inertia etc might be a pain. Was refering to big HP on dyno's with road going bike tyres specifically, I also have seen big hp with cars on rolling dyno's work just fine (though no where near 2000) wana lash that down well lol.

Booster
13-08-2010, 11:25 PM
I will get another pic tomorrow, tried today and can't get enough detail of the finish, have run ~500hp previously but with a harder compound tire and less care about marking the swingarm, not realy surprised at the wheelspin and resulting tire damage
just was not tied down enough , and i was not using the dyno as you may expect
runs were ~8-10 mins accelerating, decellerating ,steady state , its a rolling road and i gather my date with a datalogger, i can get several hundred kb of info in 10 mins, and display in tables with sometimes several hundred samples averaged in each cell of the table, one table i use often is setup to have the same x and y axis as the engine management & filled with a/f data ... makes it quite easy to target changes to the mapping

legion
14-08-2010, 03:34 AM
hae ye got onie vids chum? [8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D][8D] join ussssssssssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Booster
14-08-2010, 02:46 PM
No vids , but i have a mini camera i want to use on the landspeed bike, may try to mount it and test on the busa

Hagarr
14-08-2010, 04:27 PM
quote:If you get a yen for easy cheap HP, put a shot of dry nos into the B-K, i did a gen 1 busa and flashed it to suit, So easy, only need the bottle, lines,solenoid, spraybar (Owner built which was a drilled aluminium block with 4 brake flarenuts and lines for outlets ) and associated loom , took a slighty warm busa at 180hp to a strip animal at 220hp


Any suggestions of ones you can buy, haven't got the time at the moment to make one?

Booster
14-08-2010, 05:19 PM
http://www.rcsperformanceonline.com/Dry_Nitrous_Kit_p/dry%20nitrous%20kits.htm
http://www.orientexpress.com/Universal+Parts+%252526+Accessories/Nitrous/Nitrous+Express/Nitrous+Express+-+Power+Booster+Dry+Kit+For+EFI%25252F1.0lb+Bottle. html
http://www.boostbysmith.com/ecunos2.html
Only real problem for the B-K is its flash programme has not got the full nos functionality of the gen 2 and gen 1 busa
Justin (if you read the b-k web site you will know who i'm refering to) should be able to do this fairly easily , just needs to know there is a need or it may end up a low priority.

Hagarr
14-08-2010, 06:35 PM
Thanks Greg yes Justin is the man.

I believe he was responsible for the B-K shiftkit amongst other things.

Hagarr
14-08-2010, 06:37 PM
Oh by the way thats some impressive numbers, you looking at Lake Gairdner or Bonnie with this one?

sickboy
04-09-2010, 12:02 AM
just caught a bit of Bonnevile on the news tonight and they interviewd Greg,he has a top speed of 368 kmh.[:p].

rock hard
04-09-2010, 12:25 AM
Way to go Booster

04-09-2010, 07:53 AM
Nuts

Iceman
04-09-2010, 09:27 AM
Must be stuck in forth........

lol

BANDITROD
04-09-2010, 05:26 PM
fucking top stuff greg well done mate

Surt
04-09-2010, 09:39 PM
congrats Booster! did u measured the i.c. efficiency? i wonder whats in & out let temp like? in celsius please mate no bloody fah rehn gheyt :D

Surt
04-09-2010, 09:43 PM
ah and any figures on the negative boost of the i.c.? on ur coming back naturally Greg... and pics/vids for all! [:p]

Hagarr
29-05-2011, 02:02 PM
quote:Only real problem for the B-K is its flash programme has not got the full nos functionality of the gen 2 and gen 1 busa
Justin (if you read the b-k web site you will know who i'm refering to) should be able to do this fairly easily , just needs to know there is a need or it may end up a low priority.

Done and Done!

Just flashed the Busa program on to my B-King ECU, works fine!!

Now have Gear Shifter Functional and now to fit the Nitrous Harness from Smithy, Nitrous to be fitted once harness in and tested.

Dry Shot Nos coming up.

luckily Justin has a B-King so looks like he fastracked a couple of things and all controlled from the Suzuki ECU, WOW!!

Booster
29-05-2011, 06:07 PM
Its a beautiful thing :), great nos control being able to vary the hp/gear
I have nearly finished converting both my gen 1 racebike and 99 750 to later ecu's so i can use all the features my road bike has .

Hagarr
29-05-2011, 10:58 PM
Hey Greg don't want to bust in on your thread but what changes are you doing.

i've got an '04 harness with '02 TB's and was told to upgrade to the '07 ECU so I can use ECU Editor but the plugs are substantially different.

I'm thinking of using a Busa ECU as plugs are same and can flash from '02 onwards.

What do you think, is it easier to use a later model Gixxer thou ECU and change the plugs??

Booster
30-05-2011, 01:32 PM
Threads can go anywhere ;)
Simplest would be get a busa ecu and pin the loom to suit (it will be very close anyway)
and use rom raider to cut and paste the 06 gix fuel and ign tables to the busa .bin, it should then plug and play, but need fine tuning.
Best would be to get a 07 1k ecu and loom , US version will plug into the std ign switch and not need the immobiliser features our 1k's have , it will get you all the nice features that the ecu editor currently has ,
07 gix 1k cam sensor is a direct fit in the earlier cam covers, (the only one that is, busa and 750-600 use a different mount)
To change the injector plugs etc i cut them off a donor loom and solder/heatshrink onto the new loom, but there are not many that need changing ..