Running like shit...Help!

[Tone]

Just had carbs fixed,new parts in them etc and bike ran really well for a few hundred K's.After sitting for a week engine is missing,won't idle and sounds like it's not running on all 4.Pulled the plugs which looked a little ordinary (black,sooty) and replaced them, went OK till warm then same problems occurred.I'm thinking dodgy coils but has anyone got any other suggestions.I cleaned out the air filter and filter on fuel tap seems OK.Before I changed the plugs bike picked up once the revs got higher but died again at lower revs,with new plugs it won't do that either just runs crap!
Could it be valve clearances?Any help appreciated.
Cheers

Have you checked the floats?

Mine have been sticking a little just lately, after sitting for a week or so.

[Cruisecontrol]

Check you vaccuum hose to the carbs. If that is not sealed properly it can cause said dramas.

[Benz]

Check your 2 breather tubes, my bike had been sitting for a while, and some asshole bug made a home in one,the bike would start and run normally, but when asked to deliver started running on two, then quit. Cleaned the breather tube, everything back to normal.

[Johnnie5]

quote:Originally posted by Benz

Check your 2 breather tubes, my bike had been sitting for a while, and some asshole bug made a home in one,the bike would start and run normally, but when asked to deliver started running on two, then quit. Cleaned the breather tube, everything back to normal.


sounds like our chainsaw, would start ok but wouldnt rev

bastard mud bugs blocked up the exhaust

[Tone]

Cheers guys,went and cleaned out the tubes just now and put it back together.Started up ok then big backfires and clouds of black smoke out of the pipe and still running bad.Not confident enough to pull carbs apart though Chalky,I'm bound to fuck up somewhere[:I]

[megareg]

You did tighten the main jets up???? if not, have they unscrewed themselves????

[unsane]

Tone, if your not confident to do the carbs yourself then im geussing you got a shop to do the work? Prolly worth taking it back there as its only been a few 100 k's. If you pull the carbs yourself (easy enough job) they might even inspect them for free,especially if they fucked up.

And if your bike is a slingy like in your sig pic, two other simple things to check. If the airbox to carb rubbers arnt seated well or the clamps loose it makes for some pretty bad running (also check the 2 pins holding the rubber panels to airbox are fitted right).

And also one of the fuel lines can kink real easy on those bikes from the lack of room when the tank is put on. First thing to check if bike is dropping cylinders soon after the tank has been removed/refitted.

Tell us wot work was done & we can help;)have you just "creamed" ya tank(major shit arsehole)if plugs are black down low its that[}:)]diaphram[}:)]pilots:(or float level:(stay calm THINK & [8D]

[suxukifreak]

I had the same thing happen to my Kat, it would run only just, and back fire. Turn out to be the firing box ( wired between the pickup points and coils ), replaced with a secondhand one and all fixed.

[Tone]

Mad,carb work was replace cracked diaphragm cover,4 float needles,slide needles and o-rings.What do mean by "creamed"?
Unsane,yeah it is a slingshot,I'll go check into the rubbers and kinks in the lines,you're spot on with the no fuckin room under there!
Carb work was done at the shop so can only assume that main jets were done up tight megareg.Thanks lads.

Creamed = d-rust inside of tank treatment.
The needles are drop in, with some having clips to adjust height

[Tone]

Ta chalky...then "no creaming" done.
Pulled plugs again and checked spark,these are brand spankers and the spark was a bit yellow,certainly not blue could this be a result of what Suxukifreak mentioned?

http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/upload/320634925198642.jpg



How's does it fair against this chart?

Sounds like maybe 2nd down on right?
Are all 4 plugs much the same?
Have you pulled a plug lead off and checked the strength of the spark? (chuck a spark plug into the lead and lean it against the engine head/block , so that it shorts against the engine).
Do your carbs have a drain pipe at the bottom? Om the GPz9 I can attach a clear plastic hose (battery hose is perfect), loosen the sealing nut, and measure the float heights from the outside, by holding the hose up against the side of the carbs. One of the other guys should be able to tell you what the height should be. Will save you having to pull the carbs apart to check them.

[Tone]

Definite carbon deposits on old plugs Chalk,but new ones are clean as a whistle so far but still think the spark is a bit weak.Haven't noticed any drain pipe but will have a better look later.As mentioned,there's fuck all room in there to work...adjusting the idle is a pain in itself,can only just fit my fingers in there to turn the knob.
Cheers

[Rocket]

GSXR11 float height is 14.7mm + or - 1mm

[RUSS M8]

Just a quick thought, if you have had carby problems, and they were flooding they can fill the sump up with fuel. Easy to check, just check you oil level and smell in the filler hole. If you have fuel in your oil the bike can run rich (if you still have the crankcase breather hooked up to the airbox).
It's an odd one, but I spent 3 days trying to sort a bike out with just that problem...fecken annoying!!!

[Benz]

Could be the pilot fuel mixture is too rich. Similar problems when I changed over from 34's to 36's. Big flat spot at five, just kept getting worse further up the rev range.Hard starting when hot. Solution was turn the pilot fuel screw in half a turn, and one notch up on the needles.Each bike is different though...
It could still be coils.......

Take ya CDI unit off & put ya hair dryer on it for 10mins[8D]if ya have washed it of late it may be that:(I spent way too much money on my bike to find out it was the breather on the tank:(fuel probs have the same symtoms as spark[}:)]

[Tone]

Thanks guys...more things to check and I will!Fuckin determined to learn how to fix these bikes.;)
Mad,if only I had the need of a hair dryer and this is making the possibility even more remote.[:I]Wonder what "she who must be obeyed" will say when I tell her the Remington SupaBlo 2000 is in the tool box?:)Bike did get wet while sitting come to think of it.Do you mean the actual unit screwed to the tank or just the pipe into the headstock?
Cheers

Da tank[xx(]ova time can & will get shit in it:(SO will ya diaphram on ya fuel cock[B)]put it this way do the obveeus first;)

[evad]

if it still seems like its not running on all 4 , do the old spit on the fingers and touch the pipes, if 1&2 or 2&4 it may be your coil , how does it runn under load?

[Docktor]

If it got wet, maybe look for water in the fuel too. ? Hey just a thought. Start from cheapest and work up !!! LOL , and spray fuck outta ya plug leads n coils n other leccy lookin shit ya can see too. Ummm use wd40 or summin like that.

Doc

Yeah Doc should know about fixing problem bikes, he rides a Humpty Dumpty :D

Oh, Doc, Rob is in the process of putting together a motor with those heads of his on it now. But, as usual, he just has to chop the original gearbox off and mate it up to a Norton unit. That guy can find excuses to slow down nuclear fission.

[dazz]

hope you didn't put Shell Optimax in it[V]

[Tone]

Nah Dazz,plain old BP unleaded.Ben had a few words to me about petrol(s) after I told him I was using premium.He also told me to check about the water getting in Docktor...I forgot about that[:o)].Runs crap under load to Dave.
If the tank or filter in the fuel tap were dirty it would still run on 4 wouldn't it,when the fuel eventually reached the carbs?What's the best way to clean out the tank guys?(Note to self,Do a search!)Think I'll go and buy a ohmmeter and check out the coils next,any advice on what to get and where to get one?
Cheers,thanks and cheers again.

I usea digitech engine analyser QM1440.

Had it for a few years, and it's the best of the 4 that I have, I even use it for electronics work.

But generally anything but the cheapest available these days will do a reasonable job. Get one with audible ohm (at the lowest setting) plus auto power off, will save you a fortune in Batteries (only just recently replaced it in mine for the first time)

Don't go near digitor or such like cheapie brands.

Oh and most places like super cheap, Jaycar etc etc have a range of'em.

Testing a coil properly can require a specific coil tester.An Ohm meter wont test a coil under load or heat unless its attatched at normal operating conditions,like when it breaks down.Your local Dealer should be able to test em 4 free,just tell him you spend about $3000 a year at his shop,and your rooting his boss's daughter.Chances are 10-1 that he wont have 2 sons and his duaghter is over 16.

[Tone]

Odds are even that he'll have a wife then...she'll be over 16!
Ta lads.

[Docktor]

Is this fuckin thing running ok yet ? Been off the road longer than my tractor. :). Thanks for the heads up (haha) on those heads Chalky,Hate to be hangin by my balls waiting for him hey ?.

Doc

[damo1]

Its a Suzuki Buy a Blade problem solved.!

Baaahaaaa

[Tone]

No Doc,not yet, give us a chance...it's only been a fortnight[:I]
Yes...thank you Damo,haven't seen the orange cutter outside your work lately either!

[damo1]

Ive changed jobs so you wont see it there again but thanks for noticing.

On a serious note i had sort of the same problem but no tune up and it was shit fuel
a tank of good stuff fixed the prob (see ethonal fuel)

But the real prob was being out of the saddle for over a week its carma bitting you on the arse for
not riding for so long.

[Tone]

Caps on unused breather knobs on top of carbs cracked and split.replaced em with some rubber caps from the hardware ($1.70) and off she went on all 4[:I].Thanks to all for advice and directions to look in.
Cheers