Mate that is unreal!! so glad you left the 750 motor in and kept the stock look. You should be stoked with you work.
Mate that is unreal!! so glad you left the 750 motor in and kept the stock look. You should be stoked with you work.
Cheers Slain, i have to say, i really like the look of the stock panels and the feel of being sat in it rather than up on it.
The panels are pretty rough and will need sorting out in the future though.
next job will be a quick action throttle mod and some tuning . Cant wait to get back on a Dyno to see how it compares to before
How are you tuning? logging? have you seen this
http://www.tunerstudio.com/index.php/shadowloggerms
Hi Dave,
I do Datalog all my runs just for reference really but i actually use VE Analyze Live in Tunerstudio. It seems very good, works directly off your AF table and can be set to adjust the bins by varyng percentages so can start off with quite quick rough changes to the table then reduce the percentage change to ever refine it, as well as locking out areas of the table once your happy with them so it dosnt constantly try to change parts of the table that you are happy with etc. All good stuff. So i just ride with my laptop in my backpack and let it tune itself.
Just been back over the pictures and realised i didnt cover a couple of little issues that arise from this SSSA mod.
Firstly, due to the chain being 17mm offset some clearance issues with the sprocket cover were experianced.
I cut the back egde down flush with the cover which gives enough clearance on the top side of the chain, but the lower side of the cover steps in, so i cut it out and welded in a stepped out section to give clearance.
the cover after the mods.
and from the back showing the chain slots
fitted showing the chain clearance
and the lower run
Of course, that could all be avoided with an aftermarket cover but each to their own.
The other issue is that the left hand rearset is an interferance fit with the swingarm.
Now, i think all these SSSA ive seen use some spacers under the bolts to just space out the whole hanger.
I'm not a big fan of that, i think it looks a bit of an after thought plus you need to source longer bolts with the the correct metric fine threads , then lathe up the posts for the spacers etc so i came up with a simple option that just needs an angle grinder and the TIG and i think looks alot more factory..
So first i scored the rearsets with the grinder which allowed me to bend them easy to get clearance
Then just welded it up, easy, job and done. oh also had to pack the gear linkage off the lever at the gearbox end
by about 10mm to clear the frame.
I also managed to snap the screw that holds the resavoir pipe to the rear brake master cylinder and didnt want to buy a new one just yet so knocked up a small resavoir from a bit of left over fuel rail.
I'm nearly finished the chain guard, so will post some piccys of that and the hopefull y some riding can resume.
Hi jack,
yes I used a palm to log and then used a target asf table in megalog viewer.
Haven't used tuner studio yet but will be giving it a go on the gpz900 once I get my ass in gear and do some work on it!!
Your bike is coming on great
Yeah,its getting there, just got to finnish this damn chain guard!! It must be 2 months know, just cant seem to find the time, or have some time and no motivation!! I have a few hours tomorrow so determined to get the bugger done.
GPZ900 on MS should be an interesting project, will be a good one to follow.
Yeah probably not a very good choice of words. LOL. I'm happiest when the parts i've made either look really custom and trick or look like they were ment to be there from the factory. So i was happy that although not a trick set of custom rearsets, to most people they would never even twig that these rearsets have been mollested which in my book, especially for the ease of the job is a big bonus.
Just want to throw this out there for some opinions.
Looking at this pic again, what would you guys do with the exhaust. I've decided i think to aim towards a retro K series look with a satin black frame and swingarm, blue and white paint but with the more wedgy patturns of the more modern bikes, and posssibly a k series radial caliper usd front end to match.
I like the body shape as it is and dont want to chane the seat unit so what idea's for the exhaust to show off the rear wheel a bit?
I' thinking either;
1. move the can up tight under the edge of the rear plastics.
2.shorten the can to just less than half and mount it under the reaset to keep the wheel clear.
3. get a GP style can and mount it under the rearset.
4. make an alloy can to sit inside lower fairing under the sump so no exhaust is visable.
Any ideas of what would be a good sloution would be greatly recieved. I deffinately dont want to change the rear plastics or move all the electrics in it to mount a can above the wheel either.
Cheers Guys
I'd go with the custom under sump one mate I.e. Number 4 .....it would suit your build well ...looking good by BTW
Glenn Eason drinks and smokes and lends his arse to other blokes
Looks awsome mate. Top job.
No. 4 ... or something that just sticks out under the RHS rearset...
yep no.4 mate. i did the same when i had the fairings on and it made it look alot neater at the back end.