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Thread: Suzi 1216 running temp ?

  1. #1
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    Suzi 1216 running temp ?

    G`day all,

    After almost 4 yrs, I`ve finally got my 1216 built and just run in, in my 03 Bandit

    Before I took the old mill out, I bought an oil filler plug style temp gauge to monitor things from old mill to new mill.

    Old would sit on about 82* on hi-way...new sits on about 95*


    For my way of thinking that's a bit high for me, and I dread to think what it would be in major city traffic

    I know after rebore that they will tend to be a higher temp, but by how much?


    What experiences have all you had, and what have you done to fix it, if at all, apart from an after market cooler.

    If you have gone for brand "X" cooler, what make would you recommend as tried and tested cooler, or some other suggestion that has worked.

    Thanks,John.

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    I wasn't going to comment because I expected much more learned gentleman to come forward and my discussion is just that, experience rather than technical.

    i would expect a slightly higher temperature given a "new" engine, particularly as engine timing (retarded?) , clearances may be slightly changed from your previous engine.

    i remember in the '80's a guy I knew rode in third gear from Wickham to Karratha at 160 km/h on his Honda CB1100R which was fitted with a factory oil gauge and he reported well in excess of 125+ degrees.

    don't know long term what this would have done but short term no damage and he no doubt would have serviced regular.

  3. #3
    ASF Standard Full Member Redmohawk's Avatar
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    Depends on many things , for a start whats the oil your using and it's weight/viscosity and at what rated Temp ? Anything less than 80 deg c and you wont boil off water (so oil degrades, is why long rides help your oil condition and stop start in town makes it go to shit faster)

    Most oil supplyers will say a max oil temp of 120 deg c is safe 95 sounds just fine to me. But an oil cooler might be a good idea if you ride heaps in stop start traffic in the heat, or a thermo fan on the stock cooler. Some oil coolers come with a bypass thermostat (so they don't cool when its really cold) most are set to open around 80 deg.

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    Thanks for reply,

    I did 170 000k`s on the old engine. Changed the oil every 3000k`s from new using Motul 3100 15-50, and am content to keep on using it.

    I`ve got both gix 1100 cams dialled 106* IN....108*EX

    Only made it 9.7:1 comp(for reliability) up from 9.5:1. This is a daily rider and do long trips as well

    Head has been flowed.

    All this would equate to higher temp I know, just trying to get a feel for others that have gone down a similar path, and possible problems.

    Yesterday, did order thermo fans, and will be trying, to see out come. If no good, will go bigger cooler.

    There is no denying it goes quite well, and given its a new engine, am still learning its idiosyncrasies of what is norm.

    John.

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    Have you got any bodywork making air flow through the cooler?

    As in, when the air hits the cooler, it needs to go through it to cool, but the air can slide up and over or down or around the cooler because we don't have bodywork.
    When I first put the TL rad on the Vfr, it was pretty good. When I put the nomex honeycomb on it just before nfr, the bike ran maybe 5 deg cooler because the nomex forced more air through the rad, rather than letting it slide around the rad.
    They use it for speedway cars as a rad guard, $30 for a big sheet.
    more titanium than my bike

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    Good idea hooligan!!

    I`ll give that a shot!!

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    I got mine here
    http://speedwayspares.com.au/online-...tector-19-x-26

    You can paint it. I haven't gotten around to painting mine yet, so it's still charming yellow/gold colour.
    more titanium than my bike

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by hooligan View Post
    I got mine here
    http://speedwayspares.com.au/online-...tector-19-x-26

    You can paint it. I haven't gotten around to painting mine yet, so it's still charming yellow/gold colour.
    Thanks mate.

    The yellow/gold will give it character!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBEERWAH View Post
    Thanks for reply,

    I did 170 000k`s on the old engine. Changed the oil every 3000k`s from new using Motul 3100 15-50, and am content to keep on using it.

    I`ve got both gix 1100 cams dialled 106* IN....108*EX

    Only made it 9.7:1 comp(for reliability) up from 9.5:1. This is a daily rider and do long trips as well

    Head has been flowed.


    John.
    I've also used Motul for a while now, had no probs to date.

    When you say 9.7/1 how did you equate this?

    Don't forget more volume (1216cc) squished in to same size combustion chamber means higher comp just from the increased volume!

    Unless you clearance the cylinder head albeit you might have fitted 9.5/1 pistons have you calculated actual?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hagarr View Post
    I've also used Motul for a while now, had no probs to date.

    When you say 9.7/1 how did you equate this?

    Don't forget more volume (1216cc) squished in to same size combustion chamber means higher comp just from the increased volume!

    Unless you clearance the cylinder head albeit you might have fitted 9.5/1 pistons have you calculated actual?
    Hi Hagarr,

    They`re all valid points.

    When it came to doing the head work, I farmed it to someone far more experienced than me, and we discussed overall longevity and purpose of the bike, and put my total trust into this individual, by which through the bush telegraph, he has a very good reputation.

    I used J&E pistons

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