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  1. #141
    Quote Originally Posted by LKC73 View Post
    Seb, so sorry to see this happen. Glad to read your all ok and going to rebuild it.
    Thanks man! Way I see it shit happens, just gotta get over and on with it.

    With that in mind, chopped the ignition bracket and went to whack the triple back on the bike at which point I noticed it was massively skewed. One side was easily 5-10mm out of alignment with the other.

    But about half an hour with a hammer and mallet later:





    Went on alright


    My current plan is to mount the dash right between the upper triple and the headlight and mount an anti-vandal switch in one of the bar riser holes to control the keyless ignition circuit.





    Also my clutch MC is completely rooted so I'll need to source one of those. Anyone got a spare?



  2. #142
    ASF Premium Full Member
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    Imight have the stock one laying around.
    more titanium than my bike

  3. #143
    Quote Originally Posted by hooligan View Post
    Imight have the stock one laying around.
    Sorry, just saw this. Thanks but dw, gonna try repair my CBR one with some metal putty.

    In other news tank has arrived










    Cost me $50 + $40 for shipping and $30 for a locksmith to cut a key for the new cap. It's got a couple minor dings but is in great condition overall and came with a fuel pump which is a nice bonus. Most tanks here seem to be listed for ~ $350 without a pump.


    I've ordered a new headlight and all the parts for the keyless ignition, hopefully they will arrive in the next week or so.


    Here's the new progress gif:





    And the running cost total:

    1. Tank - $120
    Total: $120

  4. #144
    Bloke with the stick Gix11's Avatar
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    Win.

  5. #145
    ASF Premium Full Member wackyrider's Avatar
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    Glad to see you're back on the horse mate
    Live today, die tomorrow

  6. #146
    Headlight on





    Running costs:

    1. Tank - $120
    2. Headlight - $40
    Total: $160

  7. #147
    Seat arrived


    Ended up going with an S2R seat for a few reasons, one it was $100 cheaper than the Buell seat would have been and 2, I have a mate with an S2R whose brain I can pick about the subframe. So without further ado:








    I reckon the lines work really well and the Duc seat meshes perfectly with the 6th gen tank.








    New dash arrived and I picked up the relays and switch I need for keyless start, just waiting on the module itself.


    Progress gif:





    Running costs:
    1. Tank - $120
    2. Headlight - $40
    3. Seat - $140
    Total: $300

  8. #148
    ASF Premium Full Member Bob's Avatar
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    Coming back together mate.
    Ladies and Gentelmen, take my advise. "Pull down your pants and slide on the ice."

  9. #149
    ASF Gold Full Member LKC73's Avatar
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    That looks really good.
    Street Monster GSXR 7/11 water heater!
    Project R1 underway, The "Raven"

  10. #150
    Wired up the keyless ignition, works great.








    The circuit is comprised of a keyless door unlocker for a car, three DPDT relays and a latching switch.


    The relays are necessary as the door unlocker only grounds the unlock/lock wires for a second rather than toggling them on and off. Wiring diagram will explain it better than I can with words:





    Haven't wired in the battery saving sensor wires yet as one will need to go into the brake light.


    Currently, when the keyfob is in range, the LED on the key switch is illuminated and one side of the switch is grounded. When the switch is toggled it grounds relay 3 which sends power to the rest of the bike. When the keyfob is removed from range, the lock signal is sent, relays one and two toggle and the key switch is ungrounded, in turn toggling relay 3, cutting power. Hopefully that makes sense :thumbsup:


    Running costs:
    1. Tank - $120
    2. Headlight - $40
    3. Seat - $140
    4. Keyless kit - $40 + Switches & Relays - $30 ($70)
    Total: $370

  11. #151
    Bloke with the stick Gix11's Avatar
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    This is another great topic! Nice one Seb.

  12. #152
    ASF Gold Full Member LKC73's Avatar
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    So what sort of key fob are you using to have a proximity signal to be able to start the bike? Looks interesting.
    Street Monster GSXR 7/11 water heater!
    Project R1 underway, The "Raven"

  13. #153
    It's a DEI keyless entry system for a car. Fob is just a standard looking keyless car key.

  14. #154
    Finished up my proximity ignition:





    And a video of it in action:


    https://streamable.com/5hcwa

  15. #155
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    Question - what happens if the bike is switched on/running and the fob moves out of range (ie you ride off with the fob sitting on the bench, or the fob falls out of your pocket?)

  16. #156
    Quote Originally Posted by GammaBoy View Post
    Question - what happens if the bike is switched on/running and the fob moves out of range (ie you ride off with the fob sitting on the bench, or the fob falls out of your pocket?)
    Good question, the main button is ungrounded which ungrounds relay 3, switching off the bike the same way turning a key would. The fob falling out is a possible issue but not really a whole lot I can do about that short of just putting it in a secure pocket.

    Also with the experience I've got with this wiring harness it'd be easy as fuck to hotwire

  17. #157
    Aussie Streetfighter Hooligan
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    Quote Originally Posted by I0seb View Post
    Seat arrived

    Ended up going with an S2R seat for a few reasons, one it was $100 cheaper than the Buell seat would have been and 2, I have a mate with an S2R whose brain I can pick about the subframe. So without further ado:






    The bike seems to NOT be level on those stands, Wheels look to be different heights off the ground but it hard to tell.
    I like the rear of the seat to be level with the top of the fuel tank when it's sitting on it's wheels.
    Looking at that picture I'd angle it up a few degrees and have another look at the seat position.

  18. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by latheboy View Post
    The bike seems to NOT be level on those stands, Wheels look to be different heights off the ground but it hard to tell.
    I like the rear of the seat to be level with the top of the fuel tank when it's sitting on it's wheels.
    Looking at that picture I'd angle it up a few degrees and have another look at the seat position.
    Front wheel looks miles higher. I reckon with an appropriate block of wood under the front wheel, it would be very close to the top of tail being level with top of tank.

  19. #159
    Quote Originally Posted by latheboy View Post
    The bike seems to NOT be level on those stands, Wheels look to be different heights off the ground but it hard to tell.
    You're quite right, my front stand is taller than my rear stand. The seat positioning was just temporary as I was waiting for this to arrive before I finalised it:


  20. #160
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    You're going to chop up a non fucked Monster frame for the Subframe?

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