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Thread: 1216 problems, who has one?

  1. #21
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    Ah forgot one point, I have 40mm carbs with filters (no airbox) 145 Mains, can't remember pilots.

    '89 on GSXR list (Hot type) JR10B (STD) JR9B I've always used JR9B's with no issue

    Cylinder pressure 1989 on -(std) 170-199

    What about advancing the cam timing? It's ok to list the numbers of the cam but if it's not opening the Inlet valve until around 15 BTDC you may be able to open this up 5+.

    You might lose bottom end once again but what you lose at bottom you'll gain up top!
    Last edited by Hagarr; 30-09-2016 at 07:44 PM.

  2. #22
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    Yeah....I built this thing to be a torque monster, and for me, its that low to mid range thing, that gets my juices flowing.

    I don`t want the big end rush, but have had to set the cams as they are now, to try and fix the problem.
    I want to be able to short shift, and torque out of corners in the twisties.

    I did have 102/104, and this made 215 cranking psi. Obviously this didn`t help pinging, but had really good torque.
    While in this state, a couple of times only, it behaved, and short shifting at 5500rpm, with standard gearing, picked the front up in 3rd gear, but this was only a couple of freak times when it actually worked.

    The head has also been flowed, but still running standard valve size.

    Some one has suggested to skim the pistons, to bring the pressure down, but there`s plenty out there with this same set up, or even higher comp, milling the head a bit running great, so this is the head fuck.

    A standard 1200 Bandit is up to 180-185 psi.

  3. #23
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    FYI I've just fitted stick coils to a slabby I'm building out of spares and works a treat.

    just saying in case you were thinking about ignition, perhaps stick coils might have some more oomph??

    just youtube it, shows you part #'s and how to do, very easy!

  4. #24
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    Cheers mate, I`ll look at that. Sounds like a positive thing to try.
    I just put some 10`s (plugs) in today, and it has made a bit of a difference.

  5. #25
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    Put a ignitech or Zeel on it, knock a bunch of ignition timing out of it in that sub 3500rpm window. Should also make it easier to start.
    Or wind a little more overlap into the cams.

  6. #26
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    Bike engines hit max advance before 3500 anyway so may as well just slot the pickup backplate and just dial back the timing by 3 deg or so. 1/2 an hour and a small round file will get you the same result for 0 money

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by slingy88 View Post
    Bike engines hit max advance before 3500 anyway so may as well just slot the pickup backplate and just dial back the timing by 3 deg or so. 1/2 an hour and a small round file will get you the same result for 0 money
    No, it won't. What you're describing reduces the timing across the whole rev range. What you want is to change the advance curve so that it doesn't hit max advance till after 3500.

    Having a bike with an oldskool mechanical bob-weight advance system, I've modified mine to increase the amount of advance due to the bobweights and increase the rpm that max advance is achieved at, but have it timed to give the same total advance - result is no pinging down low and easier starting.
    If/When I move to a programmable box, i'll be keeping the advance numbers low below ~3-3500rpm.

  8. #28
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    I see where your coming from now. Slotting the backplate isnt optimal but it would be a quick way to prove if reducing timing is going to help the situation.

  9. #29
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    At what rev's does the carby move from the pilots to the main jets?
    Could you be running it far to lean on the pilots.

    Does it sneeze at idle?

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by latheboy View Post
    At what rev's does the carby move from the pilots to the main jets?
    Could you be running it far to lean on the pilots.

    Does it sneeze at idle?
    Hi mate,
    Nah...it fuels nicely. I`ve increased the pilots to suit the jet kit, and A/F through out the rev range is pretty good, as per the multiple dyno`s its had.

    Its either C/R, or ignition control, but the C/R is just over 10.5:1, so i can`t see that being the issue...I think....

  11. #31
    Aussie Streetfighter Hooligan
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    I ask because when doing a dyno run the revs are usually up in the rev range for the start of the run.
    So it might be starting the run after 3500 RPM where it comes good.

    Has the AFR been checked at idle?

    My bike was running great as soon as it come on the main jets, but the idle AFR was 17:1 and was lean sneezing... easy fix for me but it's something to look at.

    My stock engine with boost has a CR of 10.8:1 and no pinning issues.

    Is the CDI for the bandit or 1152 or 1127 or 750
    All will have different ign curves in them and red line.

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by latheboy View Post
    Is the CDI for the bandit or 1152 or 1127 or 750
    All will have different ign curves in them and red line.
    Good point!

  13. #33
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    Its a Bandit CDI, on Bandit.
    The idle is about 14.5, I can`t remember the exact figure, and at the transition onto the needle, goes to high 12`s, then dips down to low 11`s at mid range, then on the main jet, goes back to high 12`s
    I have just tried another Bandit CDI. I did this last week...The two CDI`s are definitely different in characteristics... although they are for the same bike. Putting the donah CDI on seems to have lessened the effect of pinging, and it doesn`t seem to be as punchy down low, as though they are different maps.

  14. #34
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    What are the Model numbers of each CDI unit?

  15. #35
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    I can`t tell you what donah one is, as its on the bike, and tucked away behind fairing.(you have to pull the whole rear end off to get to it. PAIN IN THE ARSE)

    The original one from the bike is 131800-8050. Mines an 03, but the build date is OCT 02. This model, and the next, early 04 sale date, Suzuki decided to changed the CDI`s....why...who knows, but they`re smaller units, compared to all the other models, and not interchangeable, with the other models...unless you change the plug, as its different also.

    The one on the bike now,is for an 04, so the numbers are a little different, but essentially the same unit.
    They then went back to the bigger units, to finish off the Gen2 series. These are the same which can be found in the Gen1`s

  16. #36
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    How are your valves? Is one burnt? Im guessing you dont want to pull the lid off to check again, but if its not that it could also be a failing head gasket (had that on a 265 Hemi once).

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadowzone View Post
    How are your valves? Is one burnt? Im guessing you dont want to pull the lid off to check again, but if its not that it could also be a failing head gasket (had that on a 265 Hemi once).
    Shouldn't be.
    Its only got 20 000k's since full rebuild.
    Valves were set at new..again at 1000...then at 6000....then at 12 000,
    and then lastly at 18 000. This has all been done while changing cams,
    and cam dial in. It holds pressure on all cylinders, so they seal well.

  18. #38
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    Put a programmable ignition box on it and be happy. If it's always done it since you built it, the ignition curve is up the shit.

  19. #39
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    Just an update for anyone who cares or interested.....

    I seem to have fixed the problem totally.

    The biggest contributor in fixing the problem was going to the colder plug. I then slightly richened the mixture screw, only 1/4 of a turn out, this combined with the cold plug, and has stopped the bastard ping.

    Thanks all for help and suggestions.

    There`s no way I thought that by changing the plug, would help fix this, as it was a major major ping, like someone had a jack hammer, smashing away, in an uncontrollable fashion.

    So...happy days!!!!!!!

  20. #40
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I came across this bit of literature.

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