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Joycie's 7/11
Right. I haven’t been around much here lately so a quick recap before I start rambling. (Yes, I have introduced myself in ‘Welcome to the Madness’). Brought the 7/11 over 12 months ago from a fellow member, a bit rough but it is the later slingshot frame /engine combination I was after. Had a mad scramble to get it cobbled back together and running before rego ran out which is about the time of my last burst of activity on the forum.
Had a good 6months on the bike (read: surprised I got her through rego and rode the hell out of it while ignoring any and all issues that didn’t need to be addressed immediately). Life threw me and the family a few challenges so bike was parked up, no riding, no fettling to address the many issues I had found while getting to know the bike.
Things with family have settled down a bit and rego is looming again so let the work begin. Bear with me as little time and little budget means progress will be slow and I’m sure at times nonexistent.
Like most of you I’m sure, I scour that site looking for bargains and only buy if it’s something that is a bargain or can’t be done without (yes they are few and far between). So I won’t say that the bike will look like such and such when it’s finished, as I’m sure will be constantly changing and as such never finished. What I will say is that I’m crushing on the Gary Inman’s ‘Black Arrow’ and the Racefit bikes and check their site weekly for any updates. Not your usual High-end components (i.e. Marzocchi, AP Racing) bought together on old school engine/frames that looks some how rough but finished if that makes sense. In my opinion, Tough as. My budget will not allow me to get that level of componentry and the choice of frame/engine is a little newer but hopefully I change achieve that ‘Look’. Then again maybe not.
To start things off something needed to be done with the exhaust. I had been warned last year whilst scraping through for a pink slip. This is what it originally looked like.
A little more detail of the old end can. Needless to say it did little to reduce noise, very offensive, loved it.
Scored a crashed Yoshi end can for a dollar off that site. The outer skin was goosed but the baffle and end caps weren't too bad. Ordered a new outer from the local, trip to Bunnings for some staino rivets and already had some packing for the dirt squiter. Got the can together and took a trip to the local muffler joint and they knocked up a link pipe out of 304 stainless and ended up with this.
Enough, kids asleep, rum calling, All Blacks v Wallabies 12 all.
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Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
Seems all is well in the world
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Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
nice mate i love old skool suzukis keep it comin
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All is not well in the world.
Went to take the bike out for a test on sunday after a quick check over. Wheeled her out to the front of the drive, warmed her up. Went to throw her in gear but end up with a grinding clunk before stalling.
F@CK, into neutral, starter her up again, clutch in and still doesn't want to go. F@CK F@CK F@CK.
Clutch lever felt fine but check reservoir anyway. Fluid is not exactly mint but at least it's full. I've one of those cheap Chinese billet sprocket covers so can see slave cylinder/actuating rod working when pulling the clutch.
Have resigned to the idea that I'm not going anywhere and need to take the cover off and have a look. The clutch has had some slip when hot before this so ordered a clutch kit as well as some gaskets and back in the garage to drop the oil.
In an attempt to make oil changes easier/cleaner and therefore more frequent, I put one of these oil drain valves in instead of the sump plug last oil change. Basically it's a small locking ball valve.
Makes dropping the oil very simple. Not sure about the 90 Deg. elbow on the bottom whilst taking on speed humps or my loading ramp. There is an internal plug (think medium size grub screw) available that screws in instead of the 90 Deg. elbow but I just keep forgetting to order one.
Any way easier/cleaner plan goes wrong when removing the filter as the filter once unscrewed has to slide out from behind my headers from the right hand side right where the elbow for the oil cooler lines run. So in order to pull the unscrewed (and full) oil filter from behind the headers I also have to remove the oil cooler line as well. So I've come up with a plan to use a dry break connection on my oil cooler line to hopefully achieve the easier/cleaner plan. I ordered a few fittings from the local Autobarn and will let you know how I get on. I know I'll probably still spill oil from the filter on the headers and fill the garage with smoke and fume for the first start up.
Got distracted spending money so haven't even pulled the clutch cover to look for original problem.
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Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
That's a good idea and something I was considering using on mine. Your oil drain valve looks to be quite bulky, maybe one of these http://www.stahlbus.com/products/en/...alve/index.php might give you a little bit more room to play with as they are only 22mm-30mm long depending on your sump thread size.
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Damn, that valve from Stahlbus looks heaps more compact. Wish I' done a bit more searching. To tell the truth the drain valve I have is the first one I'd ever seen and just jumped at it.
Picked up the clutch parts I'd ordered earlier this week. They got here fast but paid through the nose for them, the other option was to wait a min. of get this 8 weeks for a rebuild kit (fibres and steels).
Hmmm...........Maybe I need to clean up the work bench before I get to carried away.
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Picked up the Areoflow parts I had ordered to re-run my oil cooler lines.
Made this bunch of parts look like this.
Had ordered two straight fittings but wasn't till I had started putting it all together I found I actually needed two 45 Deg. fittings to go from the Drybreak connection to the nipple on the sump. Another trip to the shop to order more and hopefully have this sorted next week end.
Now time to get stuck into that bloody clutch.
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Bloke with the stick
Yea, the threads are all normal mate. I usually stick a piece of softwood through the back wheel so the spokes and swinarm lock up then use a 5ft hollow bar (actually an old bar-bell from a weight lifting kit) on the end of the breaker bar. I guess rattle gun would also work.
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So with only being a little closer to solving my clutch woes it was nice to have a bit of a pick me up arrive via courrier today whilst at work. 1 pair of 2005 GSXR 1000 forks and bottom triple.
Couldn't resist bolting on the rest of my parts cache, you know just to see what it looks like.
Planned on using 'All Balls' head stem bearings with the new bottom triple and stem but am wondering what to do about steering lock stops. I'm after something simple and clean so ideally I'd get a new bottom made up from scratch to match my RME top clamp but sadly funds are dwindling fast.
So what have other come up with? Have searched for some info on fork swaps on slingshot GSXR's and haven't found anything yet. Have found some on bandits but not Slingshots.
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I put a 2008 gsxr 1000 set on my 88 frame i used the 2008 botom tripple and stem i groung off the stops and welded a new stop on the front to hit the original frame stops. I just had to work out how wide it had to be to work at both locks. See pictures hope the help.
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Sorted out my so called clutch issue last Friday, checked my lights, topped up the oil and took off Saturday morning to get a pink slip down the road.
Got knocked back straight away on the exhaust before I had even started it up. F@ck. Took one look at the Yoshi can and said nup.F@ck F@ck. Asked him what it would take for him to get it through, said he wanted to see something on the end can that said it was ADR compliant. F@ck. Asked if I had it noise tested would that be enough but still nup.
Really? I explained that the bike is 24 years old and that original exhausts in working order are few and far between and that if I could find one I’d have one. Didn’t get any reaction.
So the only way I can see out of it is to get an OEM muffler of something else and make it fit. Even then I can’t remember OEM stuff having anything on it about actually being ADR compliant just stuff about exhaust volume. Just hoping if he can see I’ve made the effort and the bike actually is quiet it will be enough. Can anyone shed some light on the subject? Even better can anyone recommend some one that is sympathetic to the common Streetfighter around rego time? In the Illawarra but will travel if it means I don’t have to the whole 3month inspection drama.
Oh, he also mentioned my nonexistent chain guard. Ordered and payed for one only to find the delivery time may be October so off to Bunnings I went to gather the raw materials for the least Ghetto chain guard my fabrication skills could muster.
Before
After
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Where abouts in the illawarra are you from mate? Mind telling me where you took it so I can avoid them.
Most car mechanics wouldn't know shit about bikes so it should pass easy.
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Hey Bobby, I'm down in Shell Cove so usually use CJ's in Oakflats but they don't do pink slips anymore. Had no drama's with em last year. Tried the Skooter joint just south of CJ's this time mainly for convenience but no love.
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I'm just up the road a bit in crapto. Keen for a ride once you get it sorted.
Take it to where you take your car and ask them what the chances are of passing it. Never taken mine to a bike mechanic.
They ask too many questions.
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Cheers Bobby will take you up on that but at this rate it may be a while. I was thinking that a bike shop might be more sympathetic but I now know different. have already bought something to hopefully get me across the line so will persevere a little more with this bloke.
So this turned up today
Just hope I can make it fit. It's OEM off a 2013 GSXR 750. Can anyone tell me if they're stainless? It's pretty light though, it wouldn't help my cause if Ti though as my exhaust bloke is pretty good I'm pretty sure they don't do a lot of titainium.
Last edited by Joycie; 17-09-2014 at 09:16 PM.
Reason: Pic didn't attach correctly
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Aussie Streetfighter Hooligan
Don't know if it's S/S or Ti..
Why would it matter to your exhaust bloke if it is Ti? Wouldn't you just make a link pipe and mount it with the V band?
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It's hard to tell from the pic I posted but the curved inlet of the end can is roughly at 45Deg. and the outlet of my headers is biased to the right side of the bike due to the shape of the sump. If I mount the can similarly to the one that's currently on it (most simple mount) also on the right side there is about about 6inches of room for the link pipe and while eyeing it up it looks as if the end can inlet will be down the centre of the bike if not the left side. So the link pipe would have 6inches in which to form an'S' shape.
I know that's a crap explanation which a couple of pic's could of clarified but hey it's early alright.
Latheboy, it's a bit more work than I envisaged but if it was stainless I could have the inlet of the end can cut and welded at a less aggressive angle.
Will pull the exhaust tonight and see if I can make up a hanger bracket that will hopefully lesson the problem.
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You're persistent I'll give you that haha!
If he knocks you back again I'm fairly certain you can take it elsewhere as he doesn't do any paper work till it passes yeah?
What exhaust guy are you using?
I done my own but my welder has since packed it in.
The muffler shop at dapto is good. Good bloke loves a chat.
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Yeah I guess, I kinda just want it sorted so that I don't have to go through this every year. Yeah that's right Bobby, doesn't do any paperwork till he passes it so it doesn't hurt other than wasting time.
Using Oak Flats Muffler Men, they did the link pipe for the Yoshi end can that usually lives on the bike. The were pretty quick (fitted me in there and then and took 2-3hrs) and cost bugger all.
Hopefully this gives a better idea of what I'm dealing with the new end can.
Could have been worse I suppose, just means more stuffing about for a link pipe to fit.
A little side profile, not too bad for an OEM pipe and light too.
Had it loaded up on the ute but didn't get to the muffler joint today.
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