so i was hunting through a few builds for engine inspiration....... and came across this!
now this guy was getting heaps of shit for what he has done, but i rekon it looks pretty cool
and sure is different!!!
so i was hunting through a few builds for engine inspiration....... and came across this!
now this guy was getting heaps of shit for what he has done, but i rekon it looks pretty cool
and sure is different!!!
Looks like it was ment to be
Cheers Matt
I hate being bipolar, its awesome!
Oilcooled motors in Zed frames never sit right, the oilboilers are much shorter front to back than the Zed lumps, and end up being pushed forwards to get the headers through the downtubes, which leaves the front sprocket too far in front of the swingarm pivot, which in turn fucks up the chain tension under suspension movement. Mark over at Moorespeed has just slotted a ZRX1200 lump into an old Zed frame and it fits much better the the oilcooled lump does, even the SV1000 rad he has used doesn't look out of place.
On another note the Z1260 lump I have just built has been on my dyno today and is currently producing 126.5bhp and 71lb/ft of torque, a little more tweaking should see close to 130bhp from the old girl, the same spec motor built with the later Unitrak head would easily see in excess 130bhp as the GPZ11A head flows much more than the early head does.
The shafty frame will also easily accept the Triumph singlesided swingarm, although the wheel needs spacing 10mm to the right, the arm has space either side of it. I have a couple of shafty frames here, I did look at dropping the Triumph arm into it, but then got distracted with something else, so I never got around to it. The other advantage of the shafty frames is the diameter of the swingarm pivot which is only about 16mm on the chaindrive frames and much larger on the shafty frame which makes it much easier fitting later arms without the need for tophat sleeves to reduce the pivot diameter of the arms.
As for the ride height, get yerself a stepped top yoke made, you can extend the radial forks internally by about 30mm with an extension to the damper rod and a spacer on the spring, but any more and the stanchion drops out of the top bushing. ABE will manufacture longer stanchions if required, but then you end up with the front end looking like a dirtbike.
From memory one of the blade top yokes is stepped and is 210mm centres same as the ZX6R/10R yokes, with the blade top yoke and an internal extension you should gain around 50mm on the front end.
I run GSXR K series radial forks in my Z/GPZ1170 MadCow which has dropped the front down, I run an Akrapovic 4-2-1 pipe from a B12 which I modded to fit which tucks tight to the sump and improves ground clearance over using a 4-1 stacked collector.
aahhh of corse the headders! i was wondering why they had tilted the engine so far forward...
why would you not just re-do the headders?
anyway the more i think about it the bore i dont want an oil boiller, its gotta be air cooled!
and Dyno, im against SSSA's with a passion! not that there is anything wrong with them, they look good.....
but its as though anyone who modifys a bike throws a SSSA in it, and thats fine its there bike but its is now just waaay to common for me. "IF EVERYONE HAS ONE , I DONT WANT ONE"............ just sayi'n
you're such a hipster.
fuk id so be the keyboard legend!
small up date, now have a ZX636 rear axle, same length as the R1 so will fit the swing arm once i get some bigger blocks and same diamiter as Ducati wheel bearings (25mm)
im going to have to have some wheel spacers made for width, but also stepped so they bush the swingarm holes
and caliper mount bracket
You'll have a right fiddle fitting them if the slide into the swingarm slots. You'd be better off having new chain adjuster blocks done to sit into the slots from the outside.
ill just get some spacers made to fit inside the slide hole in the swinger on the drive side and inside the caliper mount and swinger on the brake side, yeah it will be a little bit more fiddly to take the wheel on and off, but no huge drama.
i havent measured the lenghts of the spacers yet but here's what ill be doing:
give us a yell if you want em made up for you... i'm all lathey and shit nowdays :P
oh sweet!!! as soon as i get my wheels back ill get the lengths measured up and come annoy you!
i don't live there anymore though :P I live in Bairnsdale now, but i'll be getting down that way a bit. just send me those pics (but with lengths) and i'll make em for ya out of 4140 steel (chromoly) for a few beers.
sounds good to me!!!
I might start annoying you for some material Trav.
FUCK YEAH!!!!!!!!! Picked up my frame today, thanks again Red, I'm good as with directions huh.......
Ans also thanks to Peter for the frame(I'm sure he'll be a new member here once he works out the computer)
This thing is gonna be SEXY! I set the R1swingarm in place to have a look.
I have also had a bit o f a measure up.....
The ST's don't have a swing arm pivot bolt due to being shaft drive and she's a wide frame!
So I was thinking I would have to have a piviot bolt machined, but the bolt needs to be 27mm diameter and 355mm long so if I find a rear axle the same diameter or bigger than the R1piviot bolt I can get that turned down and ream the pivot holes in the frame if I have too.
Last edited by kiwi kdx; 19-06-2012 at 02:28 PM.
its easy just to sleave the arm and run the smaller bolt
Haha yeah easy as if you have your owm lathe.....
THIS I FOR YOU STIFFIE!!!!
120 front, 190 rear.
Last edited by kiwi kdx; 19-06-2012 at 04:30 PM.
I love those wheels mate and where your build is going
Thanks mate, the wheels have been my pet project for a while now its great to see them with rubber on!
will be interesting to see how you are planning to get the wheel out with those stepped spacers.
i would go with different spacers as dynomutt mentioned.
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