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Thread: Cogs & Sprockets

  1. #21
    ASF Gold Full Member Yella's Avatar
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    sweet keep the updates coming
    'Originally Posted by rock hard stock swingarms are for blokes with balls!! ha ha'



    I would love to become a professional whistler. I'm pretty amazing at it now, but I wanna get, like, even better. Make my living out of it.

    Yella turbo ZX7 Winner VCM Best Streetfighter and SOS encouragement award NFR 2011
    http://www.streetfighters.com.au/for...-s-ZX7-project

  2. #22
    ASF Standard Full Member Redmohawk's Avatar
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    Not a big supprize , But was worth the test eh. Interested in what the 520 sprockets n chain do.

  3. #23
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    520 chain and sprockets 16/42, feels smoother, not as much lash I think they call it, it surprised me I could feel the difference as I couldn't feel any difference when I done the conversion on the GSXR a few years ago.

    I dropped about .4 a second but not under 7.4 which I was hoping to be, still a little boggy off the line but was very consistent. I'm thinking up a couple more on the back and I should get back to the same pickup as the 15 on the front. Don't want to go back to a 15 front though, I think it is too hard on the chain on this bike.

    Only five bikes at the meet and two of those were chookies so no bragging rights but dial your own times evens things up if you do it fairly. I ran a 7.55 on a 7.5 dial in against a guy who ran a 7.0X on a 6.9 dial in for the final and come second.

    I need NOS......

  4. #24
    ASF Standard Full Member Redmohawk's Avatar
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    Interesting , I would have thought 2 tenths but not 4 impressive. What kind of rpm's are you launching at ? We talking full throttle slip clutch or more sedate launches ? Hows the front end going now ? Heading for the sky or behaving better with the slightly higher gearing ?

  5. #25
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Launching at 5 - 6krpm, plenty of clutch, clutch is all out by 10ft past the lights. Any more revs and any less clutch and it'll just wheelie through the lights, not a fast way to launch. I just watched some vids I took and the problem area is the 20' or so foot past the lights once I get all the clutch out, sometimes it drops a 1000 or so revs if I launch to low in the revs or forget to remove my brain and grow some nuts, it's a fine line.

    My biggest problem now is not twisting to 100% throttle, between hanging on and getting ready for second I noticed sometimes, the slower runs, I only crank it around to about 80% throttle in first, if I was to get serious I'd get a quick action throttle too.

    It's skipping the front tire most the way down, thank god for steering dampners.

  6. #26
    ASF Standard Full Member Redmohawk's Avatar
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    I take it this puppy is road to ? If not , What about some slightly lighter springs in the clutch , but put a lockup in it at the same time ? A little easyer to let slip (without you grabbing the leaver as much) at low revs but locks up nice at 100% throttle openings for you ? Just make it more machine operated instead of rider operated . And a 1/4 turn throttle to open it up a little quicker ?

    Other thing is can you get weight more forward ? Drop the front end but run rake adjusters to keep the front end stable ? Or if you want to get real wild what about a link rear end to make it push the front down just like a 4 link rear on a drag car . Big changes and really only a dedicated drag bike then but could be made to work on the road if you worked at it .
    Last edited by Redmohawk; 14-05-2012 at 09:17 PM. Reason: dreaming brain fart

  7. #27
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    This is a link to the Final on Sunday afternoon. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CszB8N8C6xQ

  8. #28
    Bloke with the stick Gix11's Avatar
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    Nice. Cheers Stu.

  9. #29
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    It's a road bike 99% of the time so I'm not going to get too carried away.

    Shopping list includes, NOS, map switch, fork straps, adjustable lowing arm for rear suspension.

    I want sub 7 sec 200mtrs consistently.

  10. #30
    ASF Standard Full Member Redmohawk's Avatar
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    all sounds like a good plan . Nos is king for cheap fast removable hp and bags of torque !

  11. #31
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    if it was me id go wet system and pogresive controler
    but all depends on how much u looking at adding and how much u want to spend

  12. #32
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    I'm a cheapskate, it will be dry shot. Just had to rego and insure two cars so it'll have to wait until next month now.

  13. #33
    ASF Standard Full Member Redmohawk's Avatar
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    Small Wet system isnt much more than a dry , or you can turn a dry into a wet with little work (the real cost is the bottle and Nitous soleniod) Wet is the way to go , to much fucking about to get dry running right 100% of the time and when it dont work right MELTED MOTOR!

  14. #34
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Who would be the best people to talk to regarding a wet system installation ?

  15. #35
    ASF Standard Full Member Redmohawk's Avatar
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    Do it yourself mate , look up on the web read a bit and buy an off the shelf system and away you go ! It really is that easy. Jetting on an off the shelf system is usally setup a little rich.

    If you want 100% piece of mind on instalation put a pressure switch (has to be very sensitive for gravity setup , pump powered units are easyer to find switches for) on fuel line after fuel solenoid just before fuel metering jet (most off the shelf fogger systems run the metering jet for fuel at fogger (bit that goes into your intake to squirt fuel and nos into your motor))

    Then link pressure switch to Nos solenoid power relay, then a "No fuel at fogger Nozzel" situation means No Nitrous oxide and No lean situation. If You can find a fuel pressure regulator that will take your injection fuel rail pressure and reduce it to 10 psi Great ! The advantage of running 10 psi fuel pressure is Nos and fuel jets are pritty much the same diam Ie 0.6mm jet for each is 25 hp gain. Just make sure your pump is up to the task of feeding the injection and Nos system at max output. (prob not a big issue with a standard bike injection setup)

    Some light reading for you on Nos If you want to really roll your own system or just learn the in's and outs . This guy is how I learnt to build systems myself a few moons back (gocart was racing 14 years back and that was my 3rd home made system)

    http://www.nitrous.info/

    And If your inclined to go with off the shelf here is a setup info pdf from "Nos" Branded Nitrous systems (pritty straight forward)

    http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...72-SNOSrev.pdf

    I prefer systems jetted before the solenoid (better metering more than anything) first page has the pros and cons of both types of setup.
    Last edited by Redmohawk; 17-05-2012 at 08:36 PM.

  16. #36
    Tyre destroying, mad bastard menace
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    Well I canned the idea of NOS for the Tuono, too much money to do it and I don't really want to toast the Tuono engine if I get it wrong.

    So I bought a busa instead as my fighter / drag project. I'm still getting it right but noticed it needs a new chain today, any idea what chain, cog and sprocket setup would best suit the drags / highway for the busa ?

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