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Thread: pod filters - what to buy?

  1. #21
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    well i may be fucked on this topic

    i just logged onto k&n and it don't seem like there is a pod filter set up that will fit my bike

    the inlet diameter is 58mm and all the ones k&n do are either 57mm or 60mm

    I am sure i could strech a 58mm but then the spacings on the duel inlet filters are all up the shit as i need 85.5mm

    then if i go for individual filters i have the problem that i need a maximum outside dia of 71mm
    or the filters will hit each other.

    i also looked at oval filters aswell but no luck.

    any other ideas guys?

  2. #22
    Guest
    quote:Originally posted by Gix11

    Who's trying to get out from under that sheet Davo?
    thats my pig,her name is Borris.

  3. #23
    Guest
    quote:Originally posted by Gix11

    Who's trying to get out from under that sheet Davo?
    thats my pig,her name is Borris.

  4. #24
    Guest
    Deano try www.dynobike.com , they have BMC's to suit your carbs for $95 each.no specs supplied but i'm sure the lads will be more than happy to reply to an email.or try www.bmcairfilters.com they also make conical singles

  5. #25
    Guest
    Deano try www.dynobike.com , they have BMC's to suit your carbs for $95 each.no specs supplied but i'm sure the lads will be more than happy to reply to an email.or try www.bmcairfilters.com they also make conical singles

  6. #26
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    davo
    seems like that is just a standard replacement filter.

    gave them a call and they are going to check and ring me back


  7. #27
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    davo
    seems like that is just a standard replacement filter.

    gave them a call and they are going to check and ring me back


  8. #28
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    only been able to find a filter in the uni filter range (like the one on your dirt bike)

    they do a foam filter that i can put on my carbs it is one filter but will cover all 4 carbs

    they are a common item for the speedway boys

    not my first preferance but will see how i go with dynobike and the bmc filters he was going to check for me

    The huy at dynobike sounded like he new what he was talking about. He reconed that the twin pod style were the best as the individual pods dont flow enough air therefore are alot harder to setup and you are more likely to have problems with midrange and topend tuning.

    he said if i had to go with individual filters that the unifilters will flow more therefore be better and easier to jet and set up.



  9. #29
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    only been able to find a filter in the uni filter range (like the one on your dirt bike)

    they do a foam filter that i can put on my carbs it is one filter but will cover all 4 carbs

    they are a common item for the speedway boys

    not my first preferance but will see how i go with dynobike and the bmc filters he was going to check for me

    The huy at dynobike sounded like he new what he was talking about. He reconed that the twin pod style were the best as the individual pods dont flow enough air therefore are alot harder to setup and you are more likely to have problems with midrange and topend tuning.

    he said if i had to go with individual filters that the unifilters will flow more therefore be better and easier to jet and set up.



  10. #30
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    does anyone know were i can get some ram tubes to suit inlet dia 58mm carbs

  11. #31
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    does anyone know were i can get some ram tubes to suit inlet dia 58mm carbs

  12. #32
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    quote:Originally posted by fimpBIKES

    i would just stick little ones on each carb, be a shite-load easier!

    i imagine the airbox issue is so u can use the 750's tank?
    i think it is more that the longer stoke of the 1100 means that the carbs and airbox sits a bit higher in the frame and that then hits the frame. i think

  13. #33
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    quote:Originally posted by fimpBIKES

    i would just stick little ones on each carb, be a shite-load easier!

    i imagine the airbox issue is so u can use the 750's tank?
    i think it is more that the longer stoke of the 1100 means that the carbs and airbox sits a bit higher in the frame and that then hits the frame. i think

  14. #34
    Guest
    Deano,a few facts...1989-1991,most powerful of the lot,massive torque,with good jetting ya get 146+HP outa these.de-restricted 36mm Mikuni's work well with both stage 1 an stage 3 induction kits,an ya dont loose any mid range with stage 3.5%power gain over stage 1 but costs a tad more an takes a bit more setting up.gota be a good exhaust.advantage of the 1127 is it takes stage 3 head flow,big valves,race valve springs,wild cam jobs and flatslides.but moving onto the M model with 40mm carbs they are nuthin but probs with a stage 3 kit.go with the stage 1 as the airbox is fine since the carbs are too big for the engine an ya loose heaps o midrange with little top end gain if ya chose stage 3,just de-restricting the carbs properly gains ya 9BHP alone.to make an M model scream ya need 41mm keihin flatslides.

  15. #35
    Guest
    Deano,a few facts...1989-1991,most powerful of the lot,massive torque,with good jetting ya get 146+HP outa these.de-restricted 36mm Mikuni's work well with both stage 1 an stage 3 induction kits,an ya dont loose any mid range with stage 3.5%power gain over stage 1 but costs a tad more an takes a bit more setting up.gota be a good exhaust.advantage of the 1127 is it takes stage 3 head flow,big valves,race valve springs,wild cam jobs and flatslides.but moving onto the M model with 40mm carbs they are nuthin but probs with a stage 3 kit.go with the stage 1 as the airbox is fine since the carbs are too big for the engine an ya loose heaps o midrange with little top end gain if ya chose stage 3,just de-restricting the carbs properly gains ya 9BHP alone.to make an M model scream ya need 41mm keihin flatslides.

  16. #36
    Guest
    Lesson 2.1992-1995 1100 wn,wp,wr 1074cc models.there is no stage 3 kit avaliable for these an the air box is very good.if ya wanna go beyond stage 1 ya definately need 41mm flatties.but try playin around with ya main an needle an fit a K+N but leave the rest of the intake alone.Zaust's r a bit far n few between on the watercoolers but Termignoni apparently fit properly.wiseco do a big bore kit to take her out to 1117cc but ya can just fit 1127 pistons for an estimated 160BHP.standard heads on the water cooled models are very good but ya can also fit 38mm 750L carbs which are not too big yet not too small.if ya loose bottom end-mid range on any of these models a 5 degree ignition advancer helps pull it like a train outa corners.also dialling in the stock cams can gain 5BHP alone.also float height is critical when jetting.Sorry to be biased but the K motor is the best GSX-r ever built,ports are perfect size,its extremely strong an very powerful.just ask Ozkat,my standard 89 shits on his 91 even tho i'm a few pounds lighter.150Hp is easy to obtain yet it remains rideable.just a shame they fucked up with the susspension.
    cheers brother.


    if ya want the low down on any of these specs just let me know,been studyin this area for a while so be happy to point ya in the wrong direxion.

  17. #37
    Guest
    Lesson 2.1992-1995 1100 wn,wp,wr 1074cc models.there is no stage 3 kit avaliable for these an the air box is very good.if ya wanna go beyond stage 1 ya definately need 41mm flatties.but try playin around with ya main an needle an fit a K+N but leave the rest of the intake alone.Zaust's r a bit far n few between on the watercoolers but Termignoni apparently fit properly.wiseco do a big bore kit to take her out to 1117cc but ya can just fit 1127 pistons for an estimated 160BHP.standard heads on the water cooled models are very good but ya can also fit 38mm 750L carbs which are not too big yet not too small.if ya loose bottom end-mid range on any of these models a 5 degree ignition advancer helps pull it like a train outa corners.also dialling in the stock cams can gain 5BHP alone.also float height is critical when jetting.Sorry to be biased but the K motor is the best GSX-r ever built,ports are perfect size,its extremely strong an very powerful.just ask Ozkat,my standard 89 shits on his 91 even tho i'm a few pounds lighter.150Hp is easy to obtain yet it remains rideable.just a shame they fucked up with the susspension.
    cheers brother.


    if ya want the low down on any of these specs just let me know,been studyin this area for a while so be happy to point ya in the wrong direxion.

  18. #38
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    my preferance would be to run the bike with an airbox with a k&n fitted but if it don't fit i need to explore options, hence this thread.

    The only reason i heard about jetting and tuning probs is the guys on old skool suzuki and mentioned it many times, even with the bike on the dyno they still cant get it tuned correctly with pods.

    the 750 motor will be coming out tonight and i will be putting in the 1100 over the next few days so i will soon know weather the airbox will fit.

  19. #39
    Bloke with a smaller stick
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    my preferance would be to run the bike with an airbox with a k&n fitted but if it don't fit i need to explore options, hence this thread.

    The only reason i heard about jetting and tuning probs is the guys on old skool suzuki and mentioned it many times, even with the bike on the dyno they still cant get it tuned correctly with pods.

    the 750 motor will be coming out tonight and i will be putting in the 1100 over the next few days so i will soon know weather the airbox will fit.

  20. #40
    Bloke with the stick Gix11's Avatar
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    Go Tiger!

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