brake bleeding

[pav69]

hey guys is there anyone local who could possably help me out bleeding brakes having no luck im on the central coast at gorokan,have put six pot calipers on bike have fluid coming out the nipple both sides but no pressure at lever cheers steve.ps need to get bike on road so i have transport.

[ALBI]

mate make sure resevoir is full !!

crack the nipple a turn or 2 make sure you put wet rags on ur wheel so fluid dont fuck da wheels or use clear tube over nipple!!

i always gravity bleed at first from hyd clutchs on trucks to cars with ABS and bike's.

sometimes a gentle squese on lever to assist fluid passing m/cyl piston is needed!!
1- now to bleed- crack the nipple and slowly pump lever/pedal so a consistant flow of clean fluid is pouring from her vein's" note if system is old say ten yrs or more then dont do full stroke's only half ,as the master cyl is worn and may have shit in the bore and damage the piston cup's".
2- once clean fluid is visable , tighten nipple.
3- pump lever/pedal 5 times to build up presure hold lever/pedal down on the 5th stoke and crack said nipple watch air escape!!
4- keep performing untill no air bubbles are visible.
5- remember brake fluid is HYDRASCOPIC i think that is how you spell it!! "it absorbs moisture" and also washes off with water forget brake cleaner for this just use water and wash of imeadiately!!!!
6- if air still present either you have a leak or m/cyl has failed possibly even a line ?? does a line buldge when brakes squesed on ??
love my speeling huh.

[Mishdog20]

And after all that, if ya still have problems, take the cap off the master, whack a cable tie on the lever to grips to pull the lever on, and leave it overnight. I had a prick of a time when i fitted braideds last year. They were just squishy and wouldnt go firm. Had to resort to this method, and it rectified the prob. It must allow the air bubbles to rise all the way to the top of the system. Probably should make sure the resie is higher than every thing else too, to allow the bubbles to go to the top.

[pav69]

thanks guys forgot to bleed master cylinder had heaps of air in it hence no feel at lever,after that i bled the calipers again to check bit more air and then a bloody strong feeling lever ,im liking these bigger brakes cant wait to feel them on the road now cheers steve

[Dynomutt]

Get a large syringe from your local vet, and then fill it with brake fluid and pump it in through the bleed nipples on the calipers, furthest from the M/C first and then once there is fluid in the res from both calipers give the lever a couple of pumps with the bleed nipple open and the syringe still attatched before locking off the bleed nipple. I back bleed all the brakes and clutches that I do. It is the fastest and cleanest method of doing it. One problem you may well encounter with 6 pots is a lack of initial bite and excessive lever travel when first pulled. This is because when the bike is used, the long pad tends to rock on the middle piston and moves the outer two pistons back very slightly which means when you first apply the brake the outer 4 pistons in each claiper have slihtly further to travel before gripping the disc, which gives a lack of initial bite and excessive lever travel. All the guys who were racing 750SRAD and TLs ditched the 6 pots and fitted the Nissin/Tokico 4 pots as they give much better braking than the 6 pots. Even using a 19mm master cylinder can still give the same problem, the best 6 pots are the type like the Harrison Billet sixes which use an individual pad per piston.

[mr.zxr]

thats interesting. i went from the tokico 4,s to the 6's and they were too touchy, had no feel at all. i changed to a smaller master cyl. to fix the prob. having said that my old calipers were rooted, so maybe i just wasn't used to having descent brakes. after all bikes are all about going fast not slow..