Super Retard XR600 updated question

[Shadowzone]

quote:Originally posted by nick76

^^^^^If i'd had garage space like i used to,I wouldve already started that^^^^^

But I would've got a XR650 to begin with.But if you already have the 600,go with that

Do it shadow,i reckon it'll come out looking awesome,and you'll blow away any of the big bikes thru the twisties!!
I love my motards,just recently got an SMR690,and it just loves the bends,and it isn't too shabby on the sraight bits either.

The 600 cost me $800 plus shipping.

I will be doing a build thread Gitzy.

The Mrs has told me I'll never get it done and so she's thrown down the gauntlet.

The parts will cost me more than the bike, but such is life. I have to do it now to prove a point. Bloody women...

[fimpBIKES]

at least the motor etc should be good
i bought it off rexie and he said it had just been rebuilt

from trying to kick it over i would say it have good compression LOL

should go like a stinky finger in an emu's bumhole!!!

[Shadowzone]

O.K. the next question is to do with pressing head stem?

How is this done? Has anyone got any links to a pictorial demo?

Or can you just explain to me what I'll need to do as I'm planning on changing the front end to a
Late model Gixxer front end. I know I'll probably need wheel spacers for the axles and the like, and that doesn't bother me so much, but I have no real idea on how to do the head stems so it all lines up and fits pretty like...

[Gitzy]

Stu when you press the old one out, press it down as there tapered.. and reverse for new stem.. might seem obvious to some but I have seen blokes press the existing stem the wrong way and making the hole stretch to maximum I.D or bending the triple thus either rendering it useless or making the new stem slide straight through as it won't be tapered anymore.. make sense??

[Shadowzone]

Thanks Gitzy makes perfect sense now.

Do I just belt it out with a hammer and in the opposite way using said hammer or is there a <s>nicer gentler</s> better tool to be used for the job?

[Gitzy]

EDIT ^^^^^ Hmmmm maybe. never really thought of that.. I reckon if you clamped it to something and made it secure and had somewhere for stem to drop through.. maybe lump of timber with hole in it.. then I can't see why not, and if you don't damage the top threaded section for stem nut..

I'm trying to find a pictorial for you...

But it is extremely easy if you have a hydraulic press, or can get hold of one for 5 minutes.. Local garage maybe..

if you have both stems and you know there a straight swap, seriously 5 min job in and out done..

[Large]

If you can get access to a hydraulic press it will make the job of pressing the stem out easier and neater (less chance of hammer damage)

I'm pretty sure I've seen threads hereabouts explaining how you put the stem into the freezer for an hour or so and the yoke into the oven for 20 minutes @200c then the stem drops straight into the yoke due to the magical changing properties of metals when heated or cooled...

Or just reuse the press.

[Large]

D'oh beaten by the gitzenator!

[Gitzy]

LOL sorry Large gotta be quick.. Also double lol whilst searching I found a dude who put a Gixer front end on his XL250.. nice one..

Is this what you are kinda aiming for mate??

http://scandalon.com/2009/09/street-...o-a-dirt-bike/

[Shadowzone]

Pretty muchly is, but with the NSR ass end cause the SSSA is porn, so it will have the NSR front rin with the NSR ass end.

Yeah baby, gonna look the goods with black plastics and finished..

[Redmohawk]

Large is on the money with the heat trick, if the yoke is cast ally its expantion rate to heat is higher than cabon steel but by how much I dont know if you know the type of steel the stem is made of or an aproximate guess looking it up on the web would be a good indicator.

The difference between ally's expantion rate used in single cyl dirt bikes is so high compared to the liner all you have to do to get the liner out is pop the whole sherbang in the oven with the liner holding the cyl up and set it to about 150 deg c almost every time once its up to temp the cyl drops to the bottom and you just use a glove to take the liner out.

To put in the new liner, heat cyl uo to 150 deg c and pop new liner in fridge once both are at temp pop liner upside down on bench and carfully slip cyl over liner and try and drop/push it down flat onto liner ! Hey presto liner cools cyl and there you go done without press.

[timbo]

Hey red where did you read that bit of info?

[Redmohawk]

Done it a few times mate , xr/xl 250s mostly . I do have a book somewhere here called tuning for speed i think gave me the idea for the first time about 15 years back , has info on the expantion of motorbike alloys commonly used from back in the dark ages to reasonably current stuff. You'd be supprized the differences is expansion of different alumimium alloys. I'll have a look for the book and post up the diffent expantion rates talks about the good stuff for making pistons etc is old school motorbike book mostly on old english stuff.

[Redmohawk]

Well stuff me with beer and call me pissed ! Good thing about moving house so much atm is everything is in marked boxes ! One marked books on bikes had tuning for speed second from top ! Is by PE Irving printed by Turton & armstrong in sydney mine is a reprint from 1987 and thats the 6th edition ! So i was wrong a little older than 15 years , showing my age a bit lol Recomend peeps chase down a copy if your into oldschool rebuilds of real old stuff has info on all kinds of shit even 2 stroke expansion chamber design etc.

Sorry about the imperial for all you metric heads but this book was first published in 1948 so deal with it lol

Ok heres the info i can see at a glance High silicon content ally mix ((L33 hard to machine cleanly)Alpax and (LO Ex used to be what car pistons were commonly made of !) all have an expantion ratio of 0.00009 inch per inch of diam per deg c (about the best on the list in this book (best being least expantion)

Y alloy R.R 50 or 53 "Birmabright" 0.000011 inch

Magnesium alloys (Elektron, Magnaminium) 0.000016 inch

Now the one of most interest to this thread is L5 I would bet as it "was" the usual stuff used for common castings of a none engine type it is the worst of the lot for expansion ratio with a expansion ratio of 0.000026 .

If your yoke is made of something simmilar to L5 and i would bet it is or a mag alloy then heating it to around 150 deg till its temp is even should make it a reasonable easy push out at the least, unless the stem is made of something silly like stainless steel.

Enjoy the info hope it is of use to some .

[DiscoDan]

I've got a copy of Tuning for Speed as well, it's the bible of engine tuning and still pretty usefull. That's written by Phil Irving (who's name now adorns the Irving Vincents) who was a god in the field 50 years ago

[Redmohawk]

Thats the dude mate, knew his shit to .