Yeah Gix,just tried to invisiblise (?) the top fairing plastic as it was too distracting while looking at the overall bike...left the clear bit behind (with mirror).As for the pillion seat...well he's only 7 so the smallest of seat pads under the top part of the rear plastic would be enough hopefully.Having a detachable seat cover something like those available for the full size seat.
if its practicallity your after then maybe a unit from a Daytona 955 or a 1200 Bandit unit, But if its abit of both prac and sportss and you want to spend abit then maybe a K6GSXR750seat unit, Even an R1/R6 unit would give you both those options.
This is it Boh,I'm after some practicality but would like to keep that basic GSXR tail shape,just shorter and slimmer.There are heaps of good looking tail ends but I personally couldn't live with the extreme look that Fimp is putting together there.I think the K2 rear looks good on a slingshot and I'm a big fan of the seat unit on that busa of Dodges.Better graft that on with the photoshop first and see how it looks.
Cheers
Mate I have connected alot of units to bikes using photo shop and Paint pro elements (.RAW) to get the best looking fighter. only thing is i never take a pillion. But what i always look for, is that the seat unit matches the lines of the tank. thats my main concern. if the tank and seat look corrct together then you make it happen. Cause you have along round tank i would go for a shorter but round tail section. And too me the best unit would be the Daytona 955. Ive seen these in wreckers. It has a really good tail light set up and looks clean and gives you that practical sports tourer use. It is also very comfortable.
Exben, are they like the ones on Judge?
if so i'll take one!!!
all u have on the site is discs and triples?
Rev the fucker!!!!!
Yeah Fimp same same.
Sorry, site needs updating & I need more time.
Cheers
Send us a PM with your details fimp.
Ben - let me at it.......
(Oh, you have mail by the way)
fimp that tail is looking sweet as in the last mock up. stevo ur advice is unreal, ive saved this whole thread for my future reference. cheers lads
i think you got it about right there fimp
good to see
dont worry dRRew,
im planning to write it all up and throw it into a pdf as a guide thingy
there a few in-between kinda photos in there that i have left out, will go in the final write-up
u are still planning to have guides off the homepage gix??
Rev the fucker!!!!!
"u are still planning to have guides off the homepage gix??"
christ I hope so...they're a big help and a great read!
Yea mate. I have a few on their way already. Deano's 7/11 conversion will be up soon. Oz's Trubo might have taken a back seat but I'll get something out of the "Tassie Trader" soon, I'm sure. I'm going to do a few simple cosmetic things as well. So keep 'em coming boys. You get full credit and a page of all your hard work for everyone to see.
by the time im outa the wheelchair its possible that i'll have polished 2 whole bikes so i could start writing the novel on that...
Do it mate. I'll stick it up.
mmm, need to even things up a bit
she's a bit un-even...
i have now added a "centreline" to help me line things up right
i took it off and did that and now the front seems to have dropped itself for me??
i like when that happens!!
i should note that the actual casting is a bit off too, not exactly symmetrical....
Rev the fucker!!!!!
hi, i too used the guide lines in the OSS webpage. I tried to keep all the lines flowing to the rear at a focus point. The green lines are the subframe and the blue line flows from the focus point through the line of the engine(head gasket) and ends where i stopped the fender sides. The pink line failed to follow this route as it seemed that the belly pan looked better when meeting with the engine at that point. The forward slope of the tank is the same as the forward slope on the seat and the seat hump (well as best as i could manage). The over all tail height was just enough to cover the full suspension travel of the rear shock as i wanted a flush under tray.
The headlight i wanted closer and lower on the forks but this proved to be impractical as i needed the space for the zx10r digi speedo clock and the aim of the headlight beam must be within a predetermined parameter set out by our vehicle laws in the UK (MOT)
I have shortened my micron but will need to bend the link pipe to suit the new subframe angle.
The bike is no way finished yet so if anybody has some ideas i would be glad to hear them.
Just in case the bike is a kwak zx9r 'e' model. The panels are all hydrids that I have made, with exception to the headlight which is German made called a Devil 666. I have done the frame in satin black. Now I just need to find a colour scheme i like and paint it.
Any body colour coded their engine? Here in the uk all the high temp engine paints are crap colours (flat red/blue/gold/black). A lot of the pics i have seen look like the engines were done in standard 2K (two pack) acrylic. Any idea how well this works?
thanks.
Cammy I've painted plenty of motors in 2k & it work fine.So let your imagination run wild.
just painted the 03 gixxer motor satin black to keep in the all black theme on it, there were a lota other collours there to use and all from brand that i've ued on car engines relialably. Go for it
Born again Juvenile delinquent
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