Unwrap the electrical tape from entire loom back to the battery area. You'll now be confronted with one shit load of wires!
Go back to the old ignition connector and familiarise yourself with it.
The brown and grey leads are the headlights and the orange and red are the main power feed. Cut the green connector block off.
The brown and grey leads can be connected together to complete the circuit. Solder them together and use some heat shrink to keep tidy.
The single orange wire from the connector splits 3 ways just past the connector. Chop the join off so you are left with the 3 orange wires. Now unwind them from the loom and take them back to the battery area. (The reason for going back to the battery area each time is because on this occasion we are going to mount the remote receiver under the tail plastics to avoid it getting heat from the engine and give it better reception from the remote hand piece signal. You could mount the unit where ever you feel suits your needs best.)
Once you have traced the orange wires back cut them to size and re solder them together again while at the same time adding a single wire to go the the relay (so we are recreating what we just cut off at the other end)
Look at the cabling again and locate the black and white neutral wire. If you follow it you will see it splits into 3 at some point. Here is what you are looking for (factory connection)
At this point solder on another wire to act as a feed to your remote unit. (make it prettier than this if you really want.....)
Now we can connect the actual unit and relay.
The yellow and red wires from the remote unit connect to the red cable we traced back from the original connection earlier. Solder them together and add another cable (in this picture the white one) which goes to the relay.
The neutral feed we connected to a minute ago now connects to the black wire on the remote unit PLUS we add yet another connection wire that goes to the relay.
The green remote wire goes straight to the relay. The white remote wire is not needed and so bent back and wrapped up.
The orange wire which we added to the end of the 3 orange wires together goes straight to the relay also.
Now all we have to do is tidy everything up. Wrap up the loom again with fresh electrical tape. Make sure the relay and remote unit are securely mounted (use some rubber or foam to mount the remote unit to protect from vibration).
The small LED will be illuminated to let you know the connection are all correct and ready to go. Click the ON button on your remote hand piece and your idiot lights will illuminate as if you had turned the key before. Press the starter button and you're in action!
The OFF button when pressed on the remote hand piece will do exactly that to your ignition! Do not leave the hand piece in a place where it is likely to get pressed when riding (i.e. Jeans pockets) as the bike suddenly losing all power in your favourite set of corners could get quite ugly!! Don't say you weren't warned!
It is now safe to give the Tasmanian Rum.
This info is true for my bike and my application. Some of this info is also true on other bikes but you have to check your wiring diagrams yourself. If it doesn't work or you set the whole garage on fire: don't blame me. If you do not feel competent with this sort of modification please do not attempt it as a bike that won't start is really boring!