El_Hefty

Loctite info for basic thread locking and retaining methods

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[QUOTE=El_Hefty;343398]

As for Loctite i'll correct some missinformation. I should post a thread on it as reference i used to sell the shit for a number of years and did hundreds of talks, demos and designs with engineers from working with the defence force to local councils cochlear ear implants car manufacturers mines etc etc etc you name it so i know a little bit about the product.

A Thread locker for general use on a bike I use 243 (blue), oil tolerant ie will work on a rag wiped bolt unlike other types like 290 (wicking) or 262,271,277 which are bolt lockers and generally way too hard and create large breakaway torques and if used in the wrong application can cause issues. There is NO non hardening thread locker, there are non hardening gasket sealers though like 515 518 and non hardening thread sealants , but by design and function a thread 'locker' must cure hard to function.

A spring washer is a 'retainer' By pure design a spring washer will do nothing from stopping a bolt backing off or losing tension but it will/should , 'once in its open position' ie sprung hold a nut from falling off as that is all they were designed to do. Spring washers are antequated and very very low tech, a better version of a simple retainer is tie wire. Nyloc nuts are another but ONE use only, but i would be amazed by how many people reuse nyloc nuts on things like rear axles. They also fuck with torque settings especially if reused. Loctite will not on tensioning fuck your torque settings . But once cured increase the 'breakaway torque' quite substantially.

If you have a torque wrench set up a demo with two bolts and two nuts get the nuts held in a vice and screw in the bolts one with a spring washer and one with loctite leave them for a few hours and then undo... i have a WB torque wrench that shows torque in both directions and the 'breakaway torque' with loctite will exceed the initial tightening torque (once cured of course) whereas the springwasher the torque is typically lower unless other factors come into play like galvanic corrosion etc etc which wont if loctite is used....

simply if you dont want shit to fall apart or come loose use loctite sure it 'might' not without it, but it 'wont' with it if used correctly

243 - general threadlocker Mid Strength Oil tolerant - the only Loctite threadlocker where bolts dont need to be cleaned of all oil residue. Hence my MUST have recommendation in every workshop

290 - Wicking grade is an great product - Used for post assembly ie small grub screws etc you can put a drop of this on the thread after assembly and it will wick its way into the joint.

any further questions just post a comment and ill answer[/QUOTE]

Updated 14-12-2011 at 07:19 PM by El_Hefty

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  1. Gix11's Avatar
    Here's a stupid one. What's the shelf life of Loctite? I have some in the shed that's covered in shit so I can't read any dates etc (if it had any). Does it have a shelf life?
  2. El_Hefty's Avatar
    It did if it was required to meet and pass military specs or for medical use but for layman no ive seen and tested loctite over the years similar to what you describeno labels looking older than moses , as long as the loctite is still liquid and hasnt thickened or been contaminted it should be fine.

    What colour is it Si and how viscous and ill try identifying it . Apart from the label and the manufacturing batch there are no identifiers on the bottle.

    I still have stuff here that would easily be 20 years old
  3. Gix11's Avatar
    Ah, missed this reply. I'll check over the weekend...