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ozkat
28-12-2004, 09:43 AM
i found this on ebay. its the same shock fitted to my 7/11. i emailed the seller and was quoted $30 us shipped here by 14day airmail that = about $71aud landed at your door. BLOODY CHEAP http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4505913461&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

J7-11
29-12-2004, 07:23 AM
Man that's cheeeeeep! Why does all this stuff come to light when I've almost finished my bike???

29-12-2004, 02:25 PM
Don't suppose that shock would fit an EF would it?

J7-11
29-12-2004, 02:36 PM
Anything fits (with modification...)!!! Don't think it'd suit an EF tho, it would need some work to get it working right, GSXR-600s are like 163kg or something, EFs are 238kg yeah?

Maybe an older GSXR shock might work better? Off a GSXR-W maybe?

29-12-2004, 03:10 PM
quote:Originally posted by J7-11

Anything fits (with modification...)!!! Don't think it'd suit an EF tho, it would need some work to get it working right, GSXR-600s are like 163kg or something, EFs are 238kg yeah?

Maybe an older GSXR shock might work better? Off a GSXR-W maybe?




Aaaah actually with linkages on a monoshock, the effect of the bikes weight is reduced isn't it, as aversed to dual shocks that is?

Also wouldn't the forks actually deal with most of the weight issues, especially on forward-biased modern machinery, while the rear shocks help to keep the rear-end in line?

Also I have a mate that weighe 180 k's when he gets onto his 600 they have a combined weight greater than me and the EF, yet the rear shock still handles that, just. (he even carries pillions/luggage, which would definitely over-weight the shock)

If I customise the bike then weight is more likely to fall than increase.

A 600 shock is likely to give me a faster response times as well won't it.

I'll check out the shocks you mentioned though, thanks for that.


MarkC

J7-11
30-12-2004, 04:21 PM
quote:Originally posted by chalk10
Aaaah actually with linkages on a monoshock, the effect of the bikes weight is reduced isn't it, as aversed to dual shocks that is?

Also wouldn't the forks actually deal with most of the weight issues, especially on forward-biased modern machinery, while the rear shocks help to keep the rear-end in line?

Also I have a mate that weighe 180 k's when he gets onto his 600 they have a combined weight greater than me and the EF, yet the rear shock still handles that, just. (he even carries pillions/luggage, which would definitely over-weight the shock)

If I customise the bike then weight is more likely to fall than increase.

A 600 shock is likely to give me a faster response times as well won't it.

I'll check out the shocks you mentioned though, thanks for that.


MarkC

Just to clarify are we talking a EF or a EFE here???

The effect of weight may be reduced, but I reckon it'll still be undersprung... plus if you start getting some more horsies out of the donk, the 600 shock prob wont be able to cope with it... Not as well as a Gixer Thou shock anyway (which I happen to know where there's a cheap one...)

Most sportsbikes these days are forward biased, but it's only very slightly, like 51/49 or 52/48. The rear shock deals with a shitload, think of when you accelerate, you're putting most (more often than not, all ;)) of the bike and riders weight over the back wheel, not to mention the extra forces due to acceleration (espec if you start modifying...)

So add an extra 75kgs are you're most definately going to compress the shock a lot more under acceleration, and do you really want that much squat coming out of corners?

180kg dude on a 600? That I GOTTA see!!! [:p] But seriously most modern jap bikes are designed for a little racer guy
in mind, 65-70kgs, and this is the weight where the suspension is designed to work best, or at least within it's setup limitations. Add an extra 100kgs and the suspension is going to be way over worked, if he got that suspension setup for his weight it would make a world of difference!

Yes I am well aware of the weight reduction benefits of streetfightering a bike! Weighing the 7/11 when it's ready is a priotiy (and I'll post up the results), aswell as many wheelies, dyno runs and a trackday (booked in at the 'creek for 29th of Jan) :)

When you say 'faster response times' are you talking about rebound or...?

Don't get me wrong, that 600 shock will be better than mid-80s OEM shock, I'm just saying there are better choices out there... A Thou shock if you want modern, or even a 'Busa one. It's hard to say if a slingshot or GSXR-W shock will work better than that 600 one, but I reckon both shocks stock the older ones will handle the weight a bit better...

Sorry for rambling on guys, and I'm definately not saying all of this is factual, just my opinions!

Cheers, J

30-12-2004, 07:31 PM
Thanks a lot J, you're a top bloke.:)

Helped to sort out some old ideas that were still swimming around in my head.[:o)]

I'll definitely go for the 1100 shock, after Iv'e finished doing my electrics (damn there's a lot of individual wires to go over), and fittng a Kat nose (It's an '84 1100EF by the way).

I'm looking at a wider rear at the moment (the bike was fitted with a 17 x 2.5 off an earlier model when I got it:() so I might look at GSXR11 rear ends as a whole, or what shocks are likely to bolt straight in.

Then there's the front end (still stock, new progressives though), motor(good cond. but stock), paint job, fake license for every state etc etc etc

Thanks again

Chalk10

J7-11
30-12-2004, 08:01 PM
No probs mate, don't take what I say as gospel tho! Might be better off posting on the OldSkool forum... although no-ones responded to my airbox mod question yet...?

Gixer 11 front and rear is the way to go, seen it on a couple of Kats and it looks awesome, especially with USD front!

Where are u by the way?

Good luck with it mate! I'm sure you'll end up with a complete beast!

30-12-2004, 09:02 PM
Yeah must admit I like the look of the USD's.:)

I'm in ACT, Sydneys not too far, but Queensland takes most of the arvo (well it did before the roads became so infested with plod[^]).

Guess I'm gonna have to go out and find a new contract after my daughter returns to her mother's...............damn[V]

At least they pay well:)

MarkC

Tony Nitrous
31-12-2004, 07:26 AM
QUOTE: Gixer 11 front and rear is the way to go, seen it on a couple of Kats and it looks awesome, especially with USD front!


Check out http://www.bigccracing.com/welcome.asp?page=21

or http://www.bigccracing.com/cpgallery.asp?offset=10

or http://www.bigccracing.com/pictures.asp?cat=ALL

if your looking for a few idea's ?

02-01-2005, 12:10 PM
quote:Originally posted by Tony Nitrous

QUOTE: Gixer 11 front and rear is the way to go, seen it on a couple of Kats and it looks awesome, especially with USD front!


Check out http://www.bigccracing.com/welcome.asp?page=21

or http://www.bigccracing.com/cpgallery.asp?offset=10

or http://www.bigccracing.com/pictures.asp?cat=ALL

if your looking for a few idea's ?




Definitely looks the go, and will accommodate a Kat nose that I'm looking at mounting (KAT1135?).

As soon as we move house, I'll be starting the job.

I'm also looking at replacing my dash with a digital one, I'm building the Tacho unit at the moment. If anyone has any info on adaptors/mods for the speedo drive conversion I would be very appreciative. (I'm a computer programmer if that could be of use to anyone, plus know a bit about electronics/custom bike alarm systems).

MarkC

J7-11
02-01-2005, 03:19 PM
Here mate... http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59

Just about to put an alarm into the 7/11 by the way, I shouldn't have any hassles with it, but if I do, I'll let u know! Cheers!

02-01-2005, 07:02 PM
quote:Originally posted by J7-11

Here mate... http://www.streetfighters.com.au/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=59

Just about to put an alarm into the 7/11 by the way, I shouldn't have any hassles with it, but if I do, I'll let u know! Cheers!


Cool, the $100 option mentioned sounded the go, but a pushy speedo does sound somehow dodgy.
I might look at modifying a standard speedo drive mechanism to feed a digital counter, it can't be that hard to add in a Hall Effect sensor (the same as used for the ignition pick-ups on a bike) or modified computer mouse sensors.

I've yet to finish the solar charger for my alarms SLA battery, on the back burner whie I sort out the current electrical faults, plus work out a circuit so that I can use the SLA to boost the Main if it's low/dying, and as an accessory power source.


MarkC

ozkat
02-01-2005, 07:33 PM
translation please

02-01-2005, 08:27 PM
quote:Originally posted by ozkat

translation please


Que? wot you want translated mate?:)

MarkC

J7-11
02-01-2005, 09:04 PM
I'm guessing your SLA is something like the alarms own battery so if someone disconnects the battery then the alarm still functions yeah? Solar charger sounds cool... let us know how u go!

02-01-2005, 10:07 PM
quote:Originally posted by J7-11

I'm guessing your SLA is something like the alarms own battery so if someone disconnects the battery then the alarm still functions yeah? Solar charger sounds cool... let us know how u go!


Yep that's pretty much it.[8D]

I'm also connecting my disc lock to the system, so that I don't ride off with it on, well try to ride off.................[V]

I also have some 1 Watt Star LED's, which give about as much power as a 25 watt mains bulb, from only a coupls of watts (indicator bulbs are 21/23 watts by comparison). They'll make a great emergency/camping light and will run for hours on my small SLA.:)

I'll post details when it's finished.


MarkC

J7-11
04-01-2005, 01:31 PM
Hmm was connecting my LED dash lights yesterday to see which colours they were (all clear until u turn 'em on) and I think they're going to burn my retina's out! At least I'll be able to see that oil light when it comes on after wheelying for k's at a time...

04-01-2005, 02:25 PM
quote:Originally posted by J7-11

Hmm was connecting my LED dash lights yesterday to see which colours they were (all clear until u turn 'em on) and I think they're going to burn my retina's out! At least I'll be able to see that oil light when it comes on after wheelying for k's at a time...


Add in a resistor to the LED power lines. I can calculate the values if you want.

I have a circuit which will automatically dull LED's in the dark[8D]
It uses a LDR (Light Dependant Resistor) to detect light levels, and modify the amount of power running through the LED's, which also means that the LED's last for longer.

These 1 Watt Stars cost a small fortune though $17.00 a pop (warning: Jaycar sell an 'equivalent' for $12.00, they aren't equivalent really[V])

I'm going up to Sydney in a few weeks to pick up some 5 Watt Stars, they should really light things up, but they cost $50+ each.:(

( I once soldered a dozen 'clear' LED's into a project, only to discover that I had mixed them up with more expensive bi-color LED's(neither of which was the desired color), all of them had clear cases. What a waste:([|)][:o)])


MarkC

J7-11
04-01-2005, 10:03 PM
Got all the resistors already mate! They should last for ages, since they're hardly ever on... Hmm do LEDs need to be isolated from vibration as much as possible? Do I have to mount them on a PCB or can I just run them in-line and put heat shrink over them or something?

04-01-2005, 11:43 PM
LED's don't need to be isolated as much as standard bulbs.

How you mount them depends on what suits you best.

My 7-segment displays are on a PCB, but analog replacement LED's are on leads with heat shrink.

What mounts are you using? chrome Bezels? black plastic units? or are you mounting the LED's behind plastic?

The black plastic mounts are good for vibration isolation.

MarkC

J7-11
05-01-2005, 05:50 AM
Using chrome bezels onto some ally... Was thinking of using some rubber washers to mount the ally, when I work out how the hell I'm going to do this that is!

05-01-2005, 12:16 PM
quote:Originally posted by J7-11

Using chrome bezels onto some ally... Was thinking of using some rubber washers to mount the ally, when I work out how the hell I'm going to do this that is!


Sound good.

I completed my digital tacho unit yesterday, still need to calibrate yet though.
I am planning on using bar graphs for the fuel and temp guages.

I've used a computer ribbon cable to separate the actual display from the signal processing unit so that it is as minimalist as possible.
This way I can mount the display units in either a very flat, black facia'd panel which can be mounted onto an upright Kat windscreen,
or mount them into narrow, wide panels which can be mounted under the top of a standard EF windscreen (I should be able to get them down to 5-6 cms deep max).
The signal processing units will be hidden away inside the fairing.
This way it places the readouts closer to my 'line of vision' (with LDR's to control output intensity), while removing the instrument binnacles.

MarkC

J7-11
07-01-2005, 07:20 AM
Sounds all very nice and tricky!

I take it LEDs draw stuff all current therefore the wire required doesn't have to be very thick??? I've got some 8 core that I was thinking about using fore the sake of tidyness...

What about instrument lights and tacho fire? Much current? Get away with thinner wire or...?

07-01-2005, 12:22 PM
quote:Originally posted by J7-11

Sounds all very nice and tricky!

I take it LEDs draw stuff all current therefore the wire required doesn't have to be very thick??? I've got some 8 core that I was thinking about using fore the sake of tidyness...

What about instrument lights and tacho fire? Much current? Get away with thinner wire or...?


The LED's only draw 10's of MilliAmps (depending on how many segments are lit up).

I went for the data ribbon cable because I had 20 odd solder connections between the signal processor and the display, plus I have a big roll of data cable sitting in the room doing sod all.

It would also be handy to be able to use computer ribbon cable connectors on the boards themselves.

I did have to split the wires into groups of 6/7 when soldering to board though, otherwise the cable will 'bunch up' badly around the connections.

I haven't test run it yet, but I will be doing so over the next few days and let you know how it goes.

I'm finishing off my wiring repairs at the moment so that I can go and stir up all the hot-rodders at the Summer Nats (15 minutes from here, close enough to stir, far enough to run and hide:D).

The instrument lights will depend on the particular LED's used. 7-segments and bar graphs all use the same amount of power basically, but higher power LED's require more power. But I would be surprised if they exceed 40-50 MilliAmps each. Should be ok, but check.

The signal feed into the processor unit is a standard 5 Amp auto wire (same a spower and earth), it has to run from the fairing down under the tank so a strong wire is required, as well as being able to handle up to 100's of milliAmps (plus surges).

The tacho unit is restricted to 9 volts.

The actual base kit that I am modifying is Dick Smith Cat No. K3241, which does not require any programming, but is soon to be dropped.

It only runs up to 9900 RPM, but my EF redlines at 8500 so that's enough leeway.

I do have most of the mods worked out to add in a '1' digit on to the left side to give 19900, plus conversion to incorporate a bargraph display.

Where did you get your LED's from? In Canberra we don't have much better than Dick Smith and Jaycar to choose from, they're not bad, but not exceptional either.

Sydney has a good range of providers.

MarkC

J7-11
08-01-2005, 08:33 AM
Went 2 Jaycar, got some decent LEDs and bezels that should work out ok...

So how thick do you reckon for the tacho feed? Instrument lights?

08-01-2005, 09:35 PM
quote:Originally posted by J7-11

Went 2 Jaycar, got some decent LEDs and bezels that should work out ok...

So how thick do you reckon for the tacho feed? Instrument lights?


I'm using standard 5 Amp wire for the Tacho feed (get it from any auto store), cable strength and durability is more important for this one I think, plus it's only one wire.

The instrument lights are best hooked up with standard Jaycar hook-up wire (code WH3001 for black), which is half the size of the 5 Amp, but still strong enough to handle a motorbike environment.

How many LED's are you running?

J7-11
09-01-2005, 07:44 AM
Just 4, blue, red, yellow n red for my warning lights... I bent up a bit of ally the other day, and just have to shape it with the dremel now, drill the holes, solder the resistors onto LEDs, wire to these, then connect it up and see if they work! Which will require me to put my rearsets on (was going to get them powdercoated, but just wanna get the bike on the road!) and install the flasher unit (got a Libertek one for free!)

Hmm I 'acquired' a bit of wire from work so will just use that! The 8-core should be fine for the LEDs and use something thicker for the tacho feed I guess!